All eyes were on Lanvin this week, as the iconic French fashion house’s Spring 2018 collection was to be new Artistic Director, Olivier Lapidus’ runway debut. His appointment in the coveted role came after a 16-month stint for former Artistic Director, Bouchra Jarrar—setting fashion’s everlasting musical chairs game in motion yet again.

In July, Lapidus revealed that he aimed to make Lanvin “a French Michael Kors” in a Business of Fashion interview—perhaps returning the brand to its former glory (and sales) under iconic designer Alber Elbaz. He attempted that right out of the gate with a collection heavy in wearability, but with a lack of the pizazz the house is known for.

Functional black trousers were paired with wispy strapless and sheer, button-front shirts, sharp blazers, and va-va-voom printed, halter bra tops.

Logos made the case for millennial consumption on sexy, plunging mini dresses, sultry keyhole-accented tops, high-waist skirts, and cocktail-perfect frocks.

Most of the assortment was neutral, but hues of pink and red did lend that refreshing Spring-like quality to the collection.

Lanvin has long been a red carpet go-to for women like Gwyneth Paltrow, Naomie Harris, Nathalie Emmanuel, and Elle Fanning. The gowns presented here were rather minimalist in comparison with typical movie star glamour, but they could be transformed with the right hair, makeup, and accessories.

Thoughts on the latest from Lanvin?