GCDS staged a playful yet provocative runway moment, with models emerging from a towering shopping bag installation as “Teenage Dirtbag” played through the venue. The collection leaned heavily into a retro ’90s mood, pairing lingerie codes with daywear silhouettes and delivering an air of insouciance throughout.

“For us, ‘What’s in My Bag?’ is not just about a meme,” said founder and creative director Giuliano Calza. “It’s about opening the bag that holds ten years of my world, and showing what’s inside: the culture, the humor, the established silhouettes and iconic designs that have made GCDS what it is.” Revisiting a decade of evolution led Calza to explore the idea of “emotional baggage” as the show’s deeper narrative thread: not what you carry, but what you’ve collected along the way.

On the runway, that reflection translated into a retro ’90s mood grounded in lingerie codes and body-conscious tailoring. Peplum tops were styled with fitted pencil skirts and coordinated sets, while sheer lace teddies and nightwear-inspired pieces were reworked for daytime. Skin-tight dresses with visible bras, corsets paired with leather pants, and flounced black LBDs finished with ruffle hems reinforced the interplay between intimacy and public display. A sheer sequin maxi layered over a thong marked one of the collection’s boldest statements.

Snakeskin emerged as a key motif, appearing on bombers, pants, and a backless gown. Sequins were styled with bras for day, and metallic tops were paired with snake-print trousers. Menswear echoed the theme with snake-print pants and shorts worn under oversized sweaters and structured tops.

The color palette moved between leopard and polka dot prints, neon yellow, hot pink, and pops of red offset against silver sequins. Lace trims and sheer hosiery added texture, while accessories amplified the playful tone: teddy bear bags, cube bags, lucite platform heels, over-the-knee flat boots, lace pantyhose, and signature heels shaped with open mouths.

Front row guests included Olandria, Anna Dello Russo, Emilia Mernes, and the Clermont Twins, who took in the high-energy presentation from their seats as the models closed out the show in a unified, statement-making finale.

See more pix from the front row below:

Photo Credit: Courtesy of GCDS / Fashion Bomb Daily