A silver banquet decorated the Williamsburg Savings Bank. Chromatic tablecloths lay across silver tables that held silver food on mirror-effect trays. The whimsical runway scene was what you’d expect from Rodarte, but it was nothing compared to the gothic ethereality that walked among it.
For Fall 2023, Kate and Laura Mullevy commissioned their artist mother to draw them some fairies. These playful illustrations were used across the collection atop flowy cold-shoulder caftans and ruffle trim dresses.
But this isn’t a collection for just any kind of fairy. This lineup speaks to the dark and gothy. Each model strutted the runway in dark eye makeup and black lipstick. Black gowns in jersey and velvet opened the show, each with bell sleeves so dramatic they swept the runway with each stride.
Black V-shaped lace insets, mutton, sleeves, and double-breasted wool coats, touch on a Victorian feel, while beaded slip dresses and full tulle robes speak to an Old Hollywood glam.
The collection was already a spectacle, but the real drama came when over-the-top metallic fringe made its way down the runway in the shape of bold shoulder gowns and glamorous cape coats.
In true Rodarte style, this collection reflects the fun and whimsy of fashion. Something often compromised these days in place of quick trend turnovers and the constant focus on making the next It item. If Rodarte’s fairy world is one where fashion is first, sign me up.