A new direction is being explored at Simkhai. Previously known as Jonathan Simkhai, the beloved American label has recently dropped the ‘Jonathan’ in its brand name and ushered in a new logo. This sense of breaking down the old to reveal the new is carried within the brand’s Fall 2023 collection.

The show opened with gowns cut through the middle and joined by metal beads. Elsewhere in the collection blazers are sliced to create jacket and skirt sets. The look comes in both day and evening options.

Simkhai’s usual taste for tailoring is done in a new direction. Experimenting with oversize belts atop bold shoulder trench coats and blazer mini dresses provided an overall NYC chic. Hardware embellishes leather looks as a cowl neck red leather dress is one of the collection’s standouts.

The collection also deconstructs style. Nearly every model wore heavy boots regardless if they wore evening gowns or moto leather looks, breaking down the linear style idea, as we’ve seen before at houses like Balenciaga and Gucci. Simkhai’s finale, however, offers a touch of glam. The new ‘S’ logo, designed in a bedazzled monogram, decorates outerwear and eveningwear.