There was a militaristic edge to the mixed media jackets, oversized metal detailing, and structured suiting. Models were strong, self-assured, and dare I say again … quite comfortable. Perhaps gone are the days of super tight, overtly sexy ensembles? High slit skirts were still present, but styled with a sheer and patterned long-sleeved top. The dresses with high slits were almost longer or had a higher collar, so as to give the illusion of being more covered up than exposed.
It wouldn’t be a Vaccarello show if not for some graphic element. Vaccarello had experimented with graphic text overlay on fabric in previous shows, but this time he opted for an artistic rendering of model Anya Rubik‘s face on a number of pieces, including varied dresses and tops. The rendering was not printed, but actually beaded onto the fabric and it had a compelling effect on the runway.
Notable additions to this show were his emphasis on denim and his very first bags; both are important components to a collection as they can often be offered at a more accessible price point for consumers. The denim was mostly high-waisted, form-fitting, and featured metal enclosures at the ankle. The bags ranged from a black leather clutch to a few cross-body styles. Some of my must-have pieces were the grey and black skirts and dresses worn by Binx Walton and Jamie Bochert, in particular. These asymmetric looks were equally sultry and effortless.
Curious about how things looked backstage? Here are my favorite exclusive behind-the-scenes shots from photographer Freddie Rankin:
In all, Anthony Vaccarello seems to be growing with his female consumer, offering her all the seductive elements of dressing with the ease of experience.
Thoughts on Anthony Vaccarello’s Spring 2016 RTW Collection?
Sources: Vogue.com, Freddie Rankin
