Theatrical, inventive, and oozing modern sophistication and uniformity, Thom Browne reminded us why there’s no other designer like him at his latest NYFW Fall ‘23 show revealed inside a theater at Hudson Yards.
Browne, who also serves as the Chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, hasn’t presented during New York Fashion week since 2021. So, you can only imagine the anticipation leading up to his show. Star-studded celebs in attendance, included Erykah Badu, Lil X Nas, and Teyana Taylor.
Despite Browne’s absence from the runway, his latest collection, inspired by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s The Little Prince, certainly made up for it. Browne took attendees on an unexpected yet worthwhile journey from the part of the book where a plane crashes into a Sahara desert.
The circular runway, painted like a traditional clock and surrounded by a crashed plane, was thought-provoking and impressive. The concept of futurism transcended on the runway through avant-garde designs.
The first model to strut the catwalk, resembled a pioneering pilot who served us an innovative white off the shoulder jumpsuit look that had strikingly disk-shaped silhouettes and was layered over a blue and green fuzzy turtleneck. Contrary, was the prince in the book, who was a model that had wild golden locks and wore an oversized tweed grey blazer paired with a metallic turtleneck and an abstract midi skirt.
The restoration of ‘The Little Prince’ characters came to life on the runway as we saw a variety of models dressed as the special components of what makes a galaxy- the planets and stars. We saw several models in off-white long sleeve dresses that were painted with the attributes of the solar system in a variety of colors.
Various models sported Saturn shape up ‘dos to complement the aesthetic of the show. Manicures of long stiletto and spiral fingernails and toenails also spoke to the galactic theme.
In addition to the dynamic planetary garments, we also saw Browne’s signature use of plaid. From plaid-on-plaid suiting to oversize plaid and tweed coats with shoulder pads, we saw what makes Thom Brown a maximalist of our time in the most endearing way. Multiple layers of black, gray, and red multicolored plaid blazers came in various variations, paired over white oxford shirts and ties. Browne completed looks with plaid trousers, pleated skirts, and Bermuda shorts.
This season, his signature grouping of novelty handbags includes leather clocks and the iconic dog-shaped ‘Hector tote’ with gold hardware. His pointy platforms with metallic heels were the showstoppers of the moment and looked like they were especially made for Lady Gaga herself. Not to mention the crystal mesh face coverings that we’re precocious in every sense.
It’s evident that Thom Browne is an inspirational leader in the fashion industry who knows how to execute a meticulous vision with a selected technique.