Designers were finally able to get back on the physical runway schedule for autumn/winter 2022 after taking a few seasons off due to the Covid-19 pandemic. With more international editors and influencers flying around the globe to sit front row at the major shows, the major fashion week events were able to go more smoothly as restrictions eased.

Though we did see some digital presentations, many designers returned to presenting their designs in more traditional ways, like through imagery, film, or other unique methods. The focus was largely on the traditional catwalk presentation by the end of the fashion week.

A few off-schedule presentations from Celine, Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs have also been particularly exciting to see since the shows wrapped up in New York, London, Milan, and Paris.


Celine’s autumn/winter 2022 collection, ‘Dans Paris’, was presented by Hedi Slimane in two historical monuments in Paris, the Hôtel de la Marine and the Hôtel National des Invalides. 

The collection was filmed by Slimane, off the usual Paris Fashion Week schedule, and starred Kaia Gerber.

The trend takeaway from the collection is cool classics.


Olivier Rousteing conceived of the idea for his latest balmain collection months ago, inspired by body armour, tactical gear, and other protective wear. The collection is personal to Rousteing, and the pieces are meant to illustrate a theme that is close to his heart.

Rousteing’s designs reflect an understanding of the limitations of fashion shows as a platform in the current moment. While Rousteing’s acknowledgement may seem small in comparison to other acts of bravery, it is still an important step forward.

This three-act show began with a dance between two tribes before moving into the main portion of the show. The final act featured a group of seven models wearing dresses that combined elements from this collection with some of the signatures first seen in the runway debut by Pierre Balmain in October 1945. 

Before Christian Dior, Balmain was one of the most innovative and forward-thinking designers in Paris and his work was instrumental in the city’s post-war reconstruction.

The trend takeaway from the collection is fantastic leather shoes and boots. 

Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren decided to show his autumn/winter 2022 collection in an elegant evening at the Museum of Modern Art in New York in March, instead of the traditional fashion week schedule.

“When I decided months ago to share my new collection in this intimate experience, I could not have anticipated the war in Ukraine,” said the designer in a message to show guests.

“It’s been a tough year, but we’re moving forward united in our hope for peace and an end to the pandemic. I’m so proud to be sharing not only a collection but an optimism for living that respects the dignity of all.”

That optimism was reflected in a completely timeless collection of monochromatic pieces – punctuated with occasional bursts of red – in the sleek lines and tailored silhouettes that the label does so well.

Trend takeaway: Enduring elegance.

Marc Jacobs

For his autumn/winter 2022 New York Fashion Week collection, Marc Jacobs returned to the New York Public Library to present his latest designs. 

The designer recruited supermodel sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid to walk in the show, where they strutted their stuff in enormous platforms, elbow-length gloves, layered knitwear and duvet dresses. The collection was inspired by a quote from German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche: “We have art in order not to die of the truth.”

Trend takeaway: Exaggerated volume, mega-platforms and vinyl.

Louis Vuitton

Time has played an important role in Nicolas Ghesquière’s work since he became the creative director at Louis Vuitton. He often combines references from different time periods, which has led to some interesting and unique fashion moments – like when he put Louis XVI-style frock coats with running shorts and sneakers in a part of the Louvre that was once a medieval moat.

This show was less about a specific period of time and more about a stage in life: adolescence. In prepared notes, Ghesquière called the collection “an excursion into a perceptible…The impermanence and beautiful volatility of adolescence.”

Trend takeaway: Youthfull style