The Fall 2016 collection of Alexander McQueen was presented by Sarah Burton during London Fashion Week with high anticipation of what was to come. Burton re-introduced the brand to the London masses with design aesthetics of structured suiting, alluding motifs (with the signature butterfly), and flowy gowns. She continued themes of black (like the tulle dresses added with floral embroidering) to juxtapose pieces of the collection, but as a whole, the collection remained light and soft.Down the runway came a series of gowns, trenches and jacquard suits boasting various images, including horses, watches and butterflies. Ruffle details complimented more feminine drapery, as well as printed fabrics and revamped silhouettes that still were form-fitting. Suits followed the form-fitting aesthetic of the fashion brand, double-breasted yet constructed in a way to reflect modernity and femininity.Soft pinks and light fur trimmed coats, both ethereal as well as reminiscent of the soft gentleness of nature. She recycled the body-trimming gowns and coats, reinventing them with bomber style shapes and nature motifs patterned throughout the entirety. Lacy bras, following-off-the-shoulder gowns and delicate lace knit dresses added to the sensuality of the collection, without losing touch of the etherealness. High revved up levels of romanticism glided through the collection, reminiscent of the VIctorian-esque collection from last year without as much melancholy. Sheer dresses continued to have a moment, as Burton posed models in silver-embellished gowns with trailing sheer panels for legs. Some came with the embellished-twin cape or coat, covering over the shoulders while dresses featured plunging necklines and clean cuts around the torso.Some of the dresses truly are reminiscent of the sheer-gown theme we’ve seen in 2014 and 2015, so let’s see how Burton continues to support the theme while reinventing in the Alexander McQueen way.
What do you think of the Alexander McQueen Fall 2016 collection?
While Gareth Pugh may not be a designer well-known to the American fashion world, he sought to change that with his Fall 2016 Ready-to-wear collection that focused on female fatale empowerment.Cobalt blue was the name of the game, with models wearing fitted blazer-dresses and hats in the shade along with white stars to evoke a sense of feminine patriotism; perhaps as a satirical gesture to the world of politics and immersion of feminism and modernity within the 21st century.He dressed his models in vibrant neutrals and cobalt blue, strutting down the runway in well-executed and tailored power suits with flared pants paired with fitted blouses and blazers.Sticking to a well form-fitting style aesthetic, he broadened his stylistic choices this collection by attenuating flares in the hems and pants, accenting outfits with eccentric and over-the-top capes and coats to pair with tight leatherette wrapped pencil skirts, plunging neckline blazers and otherwise neutral ensembles.
Despite being the shortest of the major fashion weeks, London Fashion Week still has a great deal to offer budding fashionistas craving creative genius – actually about 83 shows worth of creative genius! Let’s get into what transpired on Day 2.
Prince of Prints at Duro Olowu
Longtime FBD favorite designer, Duro Olowu always brings power-packed prints and one-of-a-kind pieces to the phenomenal women who rock his clothes.
Read our review of his Fall 2016 RTW Collection here.
The Future at Central Saint Martins
If you’ve heard of Parsons School of Design or Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in the States, then you should definitely know of Central Saint Martins (CSM), one of the most distinguished fashion institutions in the UK. Famous graduates include Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, and Mary Katrantzou to name a few and every LFW, CSM hosts a runway show to celebrate the incredible student designers in its M.A. graduating class. Such a range of design was presented – from sustainably sourced sheep wool pieces to multi-layer sequined bodysuits, but it certainly bodes well for the future.
Unconventional Reigns at J.W. Anderson
British designer J.W. Anderson is adept at crafting truly unique pieces. Now the word unique may be oft overused, but in J.W. Anderson’s case, it is factually correct. He presented padded tees, silver-studded white leather pants, and rabbit fur hoodies – all in one collection and in such a way, it made you want to own something, especially the accessories.
Patriotic Overload at Gareth Pugh
With elections upcoming in the U.S., onlookers couldn’t help but wonder if Gareth Pugh‘s Fall 2016 RTW collection was a trial to dress Hilary Clinton by November. In any case, the non-star spangled looks radiated authority with their detailed flares and trim sheaths and the Hannibal Lecter hockey masks were a touch shocking to say the least!
And The Rest…
New mother Simone Rocha channeled maternal instinct in nude and lilac gauzy things while Markus Lupfer dressed a super cool girl in round sunglasses and star embroidered boots. Holly Fulton put forth full-on paisley jumpsuits in a monochrome palette.
What do you think of London Fashion Week Day 2?
Check back in for Day 3!
Shows: Mary Katrantzou, Vivienne Westwood, and Topshop Unique.
Live stream Alexander McQueen’s glorious return back to London!
Mary Katrantzou’s Fall 2016 collection was one filled with volume, color and dynamic layering aesthetics. Even her incorporation of trench coats on top of dresses and skirts proved to be a guiding point of the collection, tapered with intricate designs and only enhancing the variation of texture and design.Down the runway came models draped in color made into dresses, various prints of hearts, stars, and fire signs chaotically scattered throughout the fabric. The collection was one of variety, even down to the hemlines: In the beginning stages of the collections, hemlines fell above the knee for a breezy Fall day scenario, where by the end of the collection there was an assortment of floor-length dresses and coats. Even work attributed attire retained the element of whimsical and color, with embellished stars running down the sides of pants or found in the sleeves of double-breasted blazers. While some designers may stray from pattern overlays or meshing combinations, Katrantzou lives in them. She brought outfits that featured strips and lavish intricacies on the bottom while mixing her signature aesthetic of decorative patterns and embellishments. Pieces from the collection definitely looked to be viable assets for both the trendy consumer as well as the wear-all fashionista.Ending her collection, Katrantzou focuses on floor-length dresses that remained form-fitting until the bottom where high-levels of volume were to be found; patterned dresses turned over on top of tulle inserts made for a perfectly re-imagined princess of a fairy tale, an idea of reinvention and modernity Katrantzou has sought for years in her collection.The collection was definitely one that focused on re-inventing while adding a touch of timelessness to clothing, even while building off a patterned aesthetic that has trended the collection for years.
What do you think of Mary Katrantzou’s Fall 2016 collection?
The bar is ever-raising for Nigerian designer Duro Olowu who debuted his Fall 2015 RTW collection this weekend in London. Although, he stuck to his guns of power-packed prints and nostalgic ‘fits, the collection felt flat with its highly repetitive ensembles and its deeply dissonant styling.
The level of thoughtfulness that goes into a Duro Olowu fabric is by tremendous. This collection’s inspiration was all about jewelry – precious stones such as onyx, lapis, and jade. While Duro Olowu gave its fair share of print-mania, there was almost too much to make a singular statement. The zebra and leopard booties and stockings were too far out there and didn’t lend to a cohesive interpretation.
However, there were considerable favorites to be admired, including a midnight blue silk dress with floral motif – this very pattern reappeared in a pleated skirt, slip dress, and floor-grazing trousers. Other special picks included a black petal sheer skirt and accompanying patchwork top. The capes – midi and full-length – offered the best of operatic drama for the woman bold enough to rock those looks.
Tracee Ellis Ross was among one of the brand’s wearers in the past few years (see here and here!) and she would look sensational in a dress surprisingly without pattern – a black column gown with oversized geometric shape. Duro Olowu is not for the faint of heart, but without a doubt, the daring fashionista will certainly stand out from the crowd.
What are your thoughts on Duro Olowu’s Fall 2016 RTW Collection?
If you’re a fan of Formation (who isn’t?), you’ll love the Accidental Genius’s Formation themed tees.
One of my favorites is their Slay tee, featuring three Black Panther esque girls walking in Formation:
It also comes in olive green.
I’m also a fan of their Black Bill Gates in the making tee.
Cute, right?
They have loads of fun, flashy tees, all for around $28 a pop.
Her leggings are now on sale for $138 and feature a high waist and a slim fit through the legs.
Her bag has a three dimensional appearance, and can be worn in five different ways, rendered in tones of pink suede.
Quite a splurge, but she looks comfy and cute.
Get her shades at Nordstrom.com, her jacket at Forward by Elyse Walke, her leggings here, and a version of her bag here.
What do you think?
With NYFW now safely over, London Fashion Week boldly kicked off this Friday with 7 presentations by 7 distinct fashion designers from around the world – from Japanese-owned Daks serving all-black British tailoring to emerging Hong Kong designer Ryan Lo kitting women in bubblegum pink fancy. We’ve got the lowdown on all the happenings from Day 1 and more!
Chinatown Inspiration at Ryan Lo
London has the strong reputation for fostering a highly experimental design culture, most often tapped into by its growing new designers hailing from prestigious fashion institutions such as Central Saint Martins and Royal College of Art. Ryan Lo is a new member of this experimenting set and presented a pastel dominant love ode to his hometown of Hong Kong for LFW.
No Cigar for Daks
On the other end of the spectrum, Japanese-owned Daks has survived for over 100 years. The collection’s menswear and womenswear pieces embraced its heritage British tailoring and added a few twists, albeit unsuccessfully. Feather bits from long overcoats found their way all over the runway and hems fell out of place on menswear suiting. Despite some interesting outfits, there was little comfort in practicality for everyday wear.
Kilts at Le Kilt
Inspired by the kilt, but no longer channeling Britney Spears schoolgirl ambition? Scottish brand Le Kilt had all the tradition of the tartan cultural symbol, but with a steady balance of modernity and wearability as well. Super pleated, belted, and garnished with enormous safety pins, these skirts cut a striking silhouette and the belt-like collars added an edgy touch.
Felder Felder
A pleasing collection from Day 1 was Felder Felder, a London-based womenswear range from twins Daniela and Annette Felder. Full of amusement and whiffs of seduction, these pieces seemed ready for a place in Rihanna’s wardrobe. As committed vegans, sisters Felder incorporated many sustainable elements into their designs, including recycled plastic and CDs, but with how seamlessly the collection moved, the audience could barely tell.
And The Rest…
Matching and contrasting piping on virgin wool was all the focus at Edeline Lee. Abstract art and asymmetry found its place in sophisticated womenswear at Eudon Choi and Korean designer J. JS Lee played with pigmented separates for the professional in mind.
Getting excited for Day 2? Here’s what to look forward to!
Shows: Central Saint Martins, Duro Olowu and more!
Sticking to a well form-fitting style aesthetic, he broadened his stylistic choices this collection by attenuating flares in the hems and pants, accenting outfits with eccentric and over-the-top capes and coats to pair with tight leatherette wrapped pencil skirts, plunging neckline blazers and otherwise neutral ensembles. 
