As a designer who marches to the beat of his own drum, fate would have it that Designer Bibhu Mohapatra latest collection at NYFW would make quite the entrance that we’ve all been longing for.

Progressive and innovatively constructed, Mohapatra channeled fashion muse and British writer Nancy Cunard in his fall 2023 collection which entailed unprecedented designs that perhaps disrupted the status quo.  Mohapatra expressed how his collection is an “allegory of the rebel within us.”

Photo: Bibhu Mohapatra

We saw rebellion happening on the runway which was evident through Mohapatra’s edgy and calculated looks such as an Ivory monochromatic poetess dress with pleats down both sides, and a cream cashmere fringe stole. Most notably, were the citrus biker gloves that were layered with multicolored bangles, reminiscent of those worn by Nancy Cunard.  In fact, vibrant biker gloves and bangles were accessorized with various garments down the runway.

In addition, beautifully crafted looks that Mohapatra curated included a Bordeaux leather Berber dress that had an embroidered shawl that hung off the shoulder, leather dresses with modern silhouettes at the hem, fur bomber jackets paired with pleated skirts, and rich mink furs over silk ensembles.

Known for dressing celebs like Michelle Obama and Puma Creative Director June Ambrose, Mohapatra has come a long way since first learning how to sew from his mother in India using old textiles. His Fall ’23 collection took us on a visual timeline from ready-to-wear to evening wear and it was captivating to see his line transition from an edgy inception to a soft cessation. 

Unexpectantly tapping into evening wear towards the end of the show with effortless and timeless gowns, we saw what make Mohapatra so versatile. His brilliant use of embroidered crystals and beading on satin, sheer and tulle gowns oozed beauty and charm.  Not to mention his snow-white chiffon cape gown that floated down the runway like clouds in the sky. Bibhu Mohapatra painted a picture for us and if his interpretation is anything like what we can expect to see from other designers during fall 2023, then we are in for a pleasant surprise.