By now, we all know what to expect from a Mary Katranzou show. We brace ourselves for dizzyingly beautiful prints, miraculously worked to actually look flattering on a body. But this season, we were in for something a little different. We did get the dazzling prints Katrantzou is known to produce, but this time around, the designer eschewed her busier aesthetic, instead exploring more subdued facets of the digital print realm.
This season, Katrantzou seemed less focused on reimagining the trompe l’oeil print she’s become famous for, and decided instead to play with new silhouettes. From folded origami shapes to rounded, structured, cocoon-like fare, it’s clear she was looking to show her range and tailoring skills.
The printed elements of the looks were drastically scaled back from what we’re used to seeing from Katrantzou. The designer superimposed the work of photographers Edward Steichen, Clarence White, and Alfred Stieglitz onto her garments, creating quietly spectaular prints in monochromatic tones. There was certainly a marked absence of color in this collection, with most pieces coming in shades of black, white, and gray. Katrantzou did add a few bright splashes coming in the form of more muted, diluted watercolor-y hues.
Etched leathers and chunky knits walked the runway alongside structured silken printed coats, gauzey, layered gowns, and the mentioned draped origami folded frocks and separates.
There are some who’ve expressed a tinge of disappointment in Katrantzou’s showing this season. In the midst of the moody palettes we’ve been seeing all year, many were looking forward to Kantranzou’s more joyful aesthetic. But I, for one, appreciate that she’s tried something different. Katranzou has put together a collection that might be less intimidating for those who want to rock the digital print trend, but aren’t sure if the busy trompe l’oeil aesthetic works for them. Still, I can’t deny that this collection does lack the degree of drama we usually see from Katranzou. Nevertheless, I wager a few of these looks might work for stylistas like Kerry Washington or Naomie Harris.
What do you think?
photos: NY Mag