Though normally known for her minimalism, Phoebe Philo went unabashedly bold for Céline’s Spring 2014 collection, chock full of undisguised adornment. Though visibly different from offerings of the past, the pieces weren’t any less cool or “It” than is requisite for the fashion house, though the designs were without a doubt more florid and a departure from Philo’s more scaled-back looks.
Prints played from the onset: eye-catching painterly brushstrokes on flowy pleated skirts, tunic tank tops, oversized tees, Spring-perfect coats, and more.
The artsy prints only became more audacious, with shades of yellow, green, and red dancing around one another. The ensembles were an interesting mix of a few different eras from ’80s boxy shoulders to modern, high-waist flowing skirts.
One couldn’t deny the vacation-inspired flair in the collection, seen in the fishnet mesh underlayers of dresses and vibrantly-hued handbags. The pieces brought to mind my vacations in the Caribbean, which is interesting to note as the brand has come under fire for not showing any diversity on its runway in quite some time. Philo did feature a few black models this time around, though certainly not enough to get an A+ on its diversity report card for the season.
The fashion house’s loyal fans do not need to fret as there were some quintessential, more minimalist moments presented. A more neutral color palette added a sharp focus to half-zip tops, two-tone pleated skirts, structured blazers, and a cobalt blue leather that screamed “power”.
Pleats were the main detail in the collection, adding feminine flair to sheer skirts, halter blouses, and fluid tunics that could easily double as dresses for the red carpet. The pieces might not fit the bill for a movie premiere, but I could definitely see the fashion house’s fans including Kim Kardashian and Anna Dello Russo wearing this season’s pieces while out and about.
What do you think of Phoebe Philo’s latest for Céline?