Every season, website Jezebel.com does a remarkably thorough report on the diversity (or lack thereof) on the runway:
This year the numbers came in–and they weren’t very encouraging. The article states, “Of 4,095 turns on the runway, only 662 went to models who weren’t white. That’s barely 16%. Black models, at 323 bookings, were used the most of any single ethnic group, aside from whites. Asians were second, with 264. Latinas were a distant third, with 61 trips down the catwalk. Fourteen times during this fashion week, models of other races were used in a runway show.” The article goes on to state that the United States is 75% white, and that shows should therefore reflect true American demographics.
The issue of diversity in fashion has been a hot topic for years now, starting with Bethann Hardison’s “Absence of Color” talks back in 2008. The fact that fashion can be exclusionary, elitist, and dare I say racist is no secret. The real question is: what do we do about it?
The idea of boycotting a line that doesn’t use models of color is appealing, but unrealistic. Apparently the Max Azrias, the forces behind Hervé Leger, BCBG, and Max Azria, were some of the main perpetrators of the ‘no color’ policy. But to think that you’ll pass up that hot BCBG frock just because the runway show didn’t feature a diverse cast seems silly. If you can do it, bravo.
I think the true solution is to simply get more people of color working behind the scenes. Casting directors clearly don’t prioritize having a multiracial cast of models, and no amount of complaining or discussion can make them change the way they conduct business. Sure, the initial fury over the lack of color resulted in a few one offs, including the all black Italian Vogue, but if we want a systematic change, it must be done from the inside.
If the recent rise of bloggers has taught me anything, it’s that fashion will recognize hard work and talent, regardless of the package it comes in. I’m challenging all of you who want to work in fashion to take on those unpaid internships, do the best job you can, sacrifice, and start to diversify the industry yourselves. Or be like Bethann and start your own modeling agency that recognizes true talent and makes the connections needed to make sure runways reflect reality.
What do you think?
Read the full article on this year’s runways at Jezebel.com.
Great piece and so true. The fact that such a significant lack of diversity still exists is a wake up call and one that shocks you back into reality. Love the suggestions regarding how to affect change.
— Lady Erin, Bag Ladies Radio
This a discussion that continues to be had, but ultimately no major change has occurred. I often wonder why, considering women of color (any color, not just Black) tend to be the most beautiful women on the planet.
I applaud your sentiment that we need more people of color in decision making roles. Perhaps in taking that route, we can influence diversity on the runways.
This is an amazing article that offers readers a dose of reality! The reality being that we as a black community, as minorities are underrepresented. No matter what some may say, we have not arrived! African Americans have been a driving force of influence spanning decades in American culture offering contributions to this industry on the runways and behind the scenes. The fashion runways do not reflect a true America. America is a melting pot of diversity and the face of America is no longer only blonde and blue eyed but black, yellow, and brown as well too.
Well when I realized guess never has black models in their Ad, I completely stopped supporting them. There are plenty of alternatives.
At the end of the day a designer is entitled to cast/book whom ever they choose in the runway show, their ads, their look books etc.
Every single American or citizen in North America is not interested in fashion therefore the models don’t really have to reflect the true population .
Also why do black people want white people to represent them so much, represent yourself. You can’t ask the same people that many claim as”racist” since all white people are not racist, or “elitist” all white people are not elitist to show you your image. By wanting white people to show black women or other races a reflection of their image, it’s only giving white people control or it, which makes no sense at all.
I went to school for fashion design so obviously I would vision my collection on models that look like me, but I can’t tell my non black class mates to vision their collections on black models when they aren’t black.
First, thank you for posting this article. We have been keeping track of ethnic discrimination in the industry, especially during fashion week. The number’s don’t surprise us. But one way or another, exposure such as this will help to bring the end of discrimination in the future.
First, thank you for posting this article. We have been keeping track of ethnic discrimination in the industry, especially during fashion week. The number’s don’t surprise us. But one way or another, exposure such as this will help to bring the end of discrimination in the future.