Reader Nyeema recently wrote, “I have a question, a question that still remains unanswered. Black high- fashion designers….where are they?? Besides Tracy Reese, who else is there that’s high up on the fashion food chain? I feel that whenever black designers are featured anywhere it’s usually this “dip your big toe in the pool to test the temperature then quickly snatch it back out” approach (if that makes sense). We’re never quite a trend. And while I do love some of the talents of the Euro designers, we as blacks (especially celebrities) tend to gravitate to them a little more. “
“I read your article on urban labels and I have to say urban label designers left the urban community long before we left the label. While I never fully embraced the urban labels (never really was my style) observing the consumer base who wore them made me feel like they just gave us a bunch of gaudy, poor quality, “street wear” for us to wallow around in while they sought more higher end Eurpoean brands. So back to my original question….where are we? Why aren’t we featured more? Who has our back? Where is our voice?”
Great question, Nyeema. Though we do have Tracy Reese showing at New York Fashion Week, Olivier Rousteing as the head designer at Balmain, Duro Olowu, Edward Wilkerson of Lafayette 148, and Patrick Robinson (formerly of the Gap), fashion is still quite a bleak place for black designers in the upper echelons.
The issue is not lack of talent, but lack of money. Though young designers like LaQuan Smith, Mataano, Sammy B, and more can compete, many struggle due to lack of capital. I asked veteran designer Stephen Burrows about the dearth of black designers during a talk with Harlem’s Fashion Row and he said the biggest issue is, “Funding. It comes down to having the resources to let your brand succeed.” In this vintage article, I said, “Vogue established the CFDA/Fashion Fund to help younger designers find their footing; France has the ANDAM award (Association National pour la Développement des Arts de la Mode) award. What do we have in place to help young African-American designers thrive?“
Unfortunately there’s nothing established, but here’s one solution: How about all the musicians who have abandoned their urban brands divert some of their copious capital to fronting seasoned designers? Instead of nursing vanity projects then losing interest, they could place their interest in a fashion talent. But then again, why should they invest their hard earned dollars into something they can’t pimp out and sell in a few years?
The other solution is for organizations like The Fashion Bomb and Harlem’s Fashion Row (and anyone else interested) to create a fund of their own. Throw a party/fundraiser, decide on a winner, and finance the dreams of someone with lots of promise. We’ve covered lots of black designers on this blog (see our category here). Perhaps it’s about time to speak with our wallets, not just with words.
What do you think?
Very well written letter and a well written response. I think the fundraiser is a great idea! I would love to see more urban high fashion designers.
I look at people like Lauren Conrad and Whitney Port who made millions (or some thousands) and then went into designing. For urban designers or dreamers even if they make it on a show, they have to sell their soul and act a fool to get attention and then because the attention is negative (a la Sheree or NeNe) they couldnt get funding for their line if they wanted.
I would def give my $$$$ to LaQuan and especially MATAANO, if I didnt have a wedding to plan.
But your argument is true, they need support from the community.
I would definitely give a few coins to upcoming designers especially Laquan and Sammy B. They both participated at our NYU fashion show a few years back for free. We didn’t have the money to support them then, but I wouldn’t mind helping them now.
And Claire, I love your idea of urban brands investing in young designers. I don’t see why there wouldn’t be a way for investors to still reap the benefits from these designers. These designers have so much promise and potential. They just need the start up funds to keep going.
As a designer myself, and a young one at that, I find the struggle to breaking into what is considered a white industry. Not only an industry dominated by white people but also one dominated by an older generation. Very few open up there minds and pocket books, to let designers like us come through a closed door. Another issue is our community devaluing the brands created by young black designers. Feeling as though our items should be priced differently or should be targeted to this group or that group. What can I say, it’s not easy.
I work with an organization that has been trying to support Black designers (particularly in the Boston area) through our annual fashion show and other events for a number of years now. It is most certainly an uphill battle. I think the idea of working collectively to help propel deserving designers into the spotlight is an excellent one. My organization would most certainly be down to collaborate on such an endeavor!
As a black designer, and a young one at that, I feel that biggest part of the problem is walking through a door that has been closed to us forever. Its the getting into a predominantly white industry that is dominated by an older generation that is hard. Another part is our community that may devalue our product (which is often handmade by the designer due to lack of funding.) Many feel like our prices should be lower and they should be targeted to this crowd or this crowd. I could go on for days, and I have with other designer friends.
High-end Designers: Ozwald Boateng, Edward Wilkerson of Lafayette 148, Stephen Burrows, Duro Olowu, B Micheal, Kevan Hall, Monique Pean, Laura Smalls and those other designers who work behind the seams of these high-end designers who we don’t know about in which Olivier Rousteing and Patrick Robinson are prime examples of.
The biggest problem is access, support and funding, brain washing tells the majority of us that we don’t create anything, we’re just consumers therefore our people don’t see our own designers as high-end producers of luxury items when in fact we are. 7TH Ave came about on the backs of African slaves when the Southern states couldn’t produce the garments for them to wear.
What you do with your money is your business, but we’ll pay thousands to CHANEL and other’s but people want to nickel and dime the black designers.
*Stepping down now*
I personally think it has more so to do with us as a people supporting our own. We tend to be followers and not leaders. If so and so has this bag we want it too. I am sure as of late Gucci and LV and other high end fashion houses have seen a rise in sales more so than before b/c we among others are flocking to these brands b/c everyone else is indulging. Instead of us going against the grain and supporting something different we’d rather ride the wave of trends. And black designers have to stay two times more innovative than before to keep afloat and attract business. As a people we have to strive to do better and want better. I think we see black high end designers as a low end brand when they arent. It’s our thinking that has to change.
one High end black designer is sitting here typing at this computer and her name is jasmine shanice
I forgot about two other high-end designers to add to the list. Amsale Aberra and Chris Aire
“But then again, why should they invest their hard earned dollars into something they can’t pimp out and sell in a few years?” Ha!!! TRUTH! If Jay-Z & Will Smith can put up the money to fund Fela, then they should definitely nurture some designers. Beyonce should do that instead of Dereon. Also, sometimes we overlook designers of color because they aren’t yet household names. As Vonmiwi pointed out, Amsale Aberra (awesome bridal designer) and one of the ladies from Cushnie et Ochs is Black.
As a matter of fact, I think I might start stalk e-mailing some of these celebs’ fan clubs or something because backing a seasoned designer would be a great idea!
This is one of the reasons why I follow the careers of RISING black designers on my own blog. I know most of them I have encountered stated that the lack of funding causes them to slow down. Another point that Andrea made is how our community tends to devalue the black designer who is trying to be successful. You have those that want to support the brand but don’t want to pay the price that is documented. Its a hard job but with organizations like Harlem’s Fashion Row and Fashion Bomb, I am confident that we would see a rising trend of high end black designers.
I think its a great idea to start a fund.
Not only that but a mentor ship as well, similar to the vogue fashion fund- there are so many special obstacles to having your own label it’s ridiculous
One half of the canadian label Greta Constantine is black
Also the current designer at Hugo Boss is black
Hugo Boss spring/summer 2012
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3p4_RycjFfk
I agree with fashion fun.
First, I’d like to say that I would be a loyal and faithful costumer to any high end black label if the quality of the product was high and the design and appeal of the product was unique and pleasing.
I do think that for the most part a lot of the black community skips over fashion design as a career. I know for myself my father would not support such a career as it isn’t stable. Which is unfortunate. I do think that there is amazing talent out there and as soon as they get their foot through the door they’ll break through the glass ceiling.
As usual, we have to support our own. I love LaQuan Smith, but I can’t afford to rock him on the regular like Bey or Keri Hilson. These celebs should really start supporting up and coming Black designers.
It’s almost amazing how much further we could get if we simply supported our own. Not just us consumers, but how much money do these musicians, athletes, etc make? $5-10 million? Rihanna has worn LaQuan Smith and Beyonce has worn Boxing Kitten, but just wearing them isn’t enough. We could all get so much further if we put some real change behind these young talents.
@Danielle Mair, I agree with you I’ll (briefly) share my story…I went to school for Psychology and became a Social Worker to nourish my appetite for helping people. Fashion was ALWAYS my first love. At the 35 I’ve just started to push my up and coming line which has been in the works for “ever” lol. What I’ve come to realize is that the world needs people who are happy, happy with doing what they love, this makes a person far more progressive than any therapy session I’ve ever conducted. With that being said I think we look at fashion like it’s not an “intelligible” field. When I began to understand the technical work, and intellect it took to design and construct garments, measure by measure, and then to market that garment…. I realized that this was a no joke field. *hats off to all designers*
I was once told that in order to get out there as a black designer you have to get a celebrity to wear your stuff….quite frankly (while I respect celebrities and their craft) I prefer a more loyal consumer base. I’ve seen timeless black fashion designers be the buzz for the moment and not become a household name as they should…..
Now don’t get me wrong I’ve seen some local black designers cut corners with fabric quality and fit, this is unacceptable. Our presence is lacking, let’s hope this article creates some much needed buzz :-)
Interesting points everyone! As a current intern for Tracy Reese and aspiring designer, I’m learning more & more everyday what it takes to have your own label and company…it takes a ton of hard work and determination and I really admire Tracy for what she does and how far she’s come. If she can do it, so can I. Hopefully I can find someone to invest in my talent & potential and help me get off my feet!
http://colorsofjoelle.com
Great post! As a black, aspiring designer myself, I agree that funding plays a big part in all of this, but it definitely should not be used as an excuse. I don’t recall designers like LaQuan Smith starting with a big budget? I too will not have a large budget, pennies if anything! But I have a goal and I will reach it. If that means starting with just one dress, that’s what I will do.
Alexander Wang started with ONE jumper! He got his name out with one jumper. So I advise those that are looking to start a line, to remember that quality is better than quantity. If funding is a problem, don’t stretch yourself thin only to launch a weak collection.
Start off small, and see where that takes you. I refuse to do a collection; my funds won’t allow me AND it’s not the only way into the fashion industry.
:)
Great article! And interesting timing too…I just began working for a black fashion designer that produces unique, high-end clothing. As the marketing director, I am so happy and impressed with this company and very excited to help The West Englewood Dynasty become a well recognized, high end fashion line. I am very proud of the fact that this company was built out of Janay’s sweat and tears with no loans or trust-fund money. She remains local and active in her hometown of Chicago, insists on the best quality, unique, wearable designs and refuses to “sell-out” to become famous or rich. We do what we do because we love it and want to share it with the world. Keep strong people, there are a lot of us interested in seeing you succeed. At TWED we are all about encouraging and inspiring other designers and artists. Please check us out http://www.Facebook.com/TWED1954. “Like” us & share it! Thank you, and all the best to you as well!
BTW- we do not think of TWED as a “black” company. All design, all creativity is really about the person – their personality and virtues, not the color. As a consumer I buy based on the business quality and ethics – color, race, creed are not important. Sell-outs are sell-outs and beautiful, creative people are amazing. Maybe don’t worry about the colors of models and designers, but about the KIND of companies that exist.
I agree, we have got start supporting these black desginers (regrdless of age). Buy their clothes support their endeavors. Something must be done!
Ozwald Boateng? No?
Well written but It seems as is you are knocking the urban brands that still are going strong. I see plenty of people wearing Apple Bottom, Pastry, etc.
@Serena
This article is about black designers and how to cultivate our brands. I’m from Englewood myself, how can a company founded in Englewood not be considered a black company? I’m not saying blacks should only wear black designers, We should def appeal to the masses, I think thats where urban wear loses its niche. But we have to support each other first before anyone takes us serious. I guess I was confused about your mission. Englewood isn’t predominantly black its an entirely black neighborhood.
I totally agree. My bff and I were discussing this same issue not too long ago. Where are all the HIGH END black designers?! There are very few and most of the designers that make it big are ones that already had money or they know people who have the funding to back it up. The sad part about it is that we (i.e. African Americans) are major consumers but we are not purchasing the majority of our clothing from black owned businesses.
There is also Amsale Aberra in the bridal category. I would support more Black designers if they fit into my personal style- clean, classic, girl with NO LOGOS.
@FashionCrazy…I appreciate your post especially because I am not starting with capital but I do believe that our talents make room for us if we are persistant. I did hear someone speak about how when AAs do get their lines on celebs, there is not much more heard about their presence. Well, the question to really ask is, how was the marketing that followed after the exposure?
I am currently trying my hand at millinery for the time being for exposure and am working on my clothing design craft. I believe in my heart that with no capital i will be able to sell the hats I have and build my presence based on quality and creativity.
I personally do feels it time we speak with our money. We want to see more us succeed but its normally talk. I say start the fund and get it going… Hopefully there will be an event an the A and I can write a check….
Yes Agreed, what about Ozwald Boateng! Its important to also reach out globally as there are are very powerful black designers outside the US. A well organised event with a prize to offer work placement opportunities will raise the profile & increase awareness of the talent out there!
Great question and post. I’ve been wondering the same thing myself. i think part of the problem is that whenever you see “urban” , it’s usually associated with a streetwear brand, almost as if that’s all black consumers want. I’d love to support more black designers but I can’t wear embellished jeans or glitter tees all day every day. I need clothing for a lifestyle, not a moment in time. If I’m going to invest $$ in a product, it needs to come from a brand that offers quality, fashionable clothing, not something that can be thrown away after 2-3 wears. That’s one of the main reasons that Tracy Reese has done so well in the industry-you know you’re getting your money’s worth. I feel like once more designers do that, the opportunity to get investors and funding will increase.
I am an african american designer and the biggest problem besides funding is that you’re supposed to have lower price points or “cut deals” because you’re black. You cannot raise capital yourself if you’re constantly having to lower or defend your pricing.
Hi,
I’m a big web surfing an came across this question on Black designers.
Surprising the following we not mentioned: Patrick Kelly, only person of color admitted to Chambre syndicale du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode; Jeffery Banks – awarded 2 Coty Awards; Gordon Henderson or Scott Barry, CD Greens, who’s dresses only appear in the Bergdorf window, Willie Smith – who’s williewear line was in 500 department stores; Bruce Oldfield a OBE winner in London and rumored to be high on the list for Kate Middleton(wedding dress); Eric Gaskns, Arthur Mcgee, Cassandra Bromfield (who has designed and manufactured for a Japanese department store and who’s dresses appear at the Oscars). I suspect that we don’t purchase the high end, because they all design for the high end. All the designers mentioned have appeared in the NY Times. I agree with Tasha, we must speak with our money.
There are a few organizations for you inspiring designers that are holding competitions for grants and scholarships for young minority designers. One in New York is Threads of Color. Check that one out to get you started.
I too agree with most of the comments. I consider myself a high-end menswear fashion designer. I’ve presented my line to high-end stores in NYC only to be told “You should drop your price points.” I refuse to dumb-down my line to appease to a certain demographic… My clothes are meticulously constructed, innovative and made in the USA yet I feel b/c of my skin color I don’t have the option of being in a store (ex Saks, Barneys, Bergdorf etc.) It’s really sad that not one AA high-end fashion designer of men’s clothes exists here in the “great land of opportunity.”
Why does it have to be a race thing. Thats the problem I have with black people. Why does everything have to turn in the race direction. Maybe they just aren’t good enough. Simple as that. And by the way, I’m half black.
Thanks to all for giving me so many designers to investigate, explore, and support. Until reading this – all I could truly think of was Tracy Reese and Patrick Robinson. My goal is to put some money aside (instead of buying a bunch of useless things) and support a designer. Even if it is just giving them some money to buy what I am sure is very expensive thread or material.
I’m an aspiring black fashion designer in CA, and have to interview a designer before I can graduate. I chose to research and find black designers because they can relate to the struggle that I’m going to face. So thank you guys for ALL the names of them :). And be on the lookout for MICAJSMITH :)
Hello I am an African American based shoe designer based out of Atlanta, Ga. I started designing in 2010 after leaving a career as a captian on a boat.
My shoes have been worn by many celebrities such as Wendy Williams, Tory Spelling, Ke Ke Palmer, Musiq Soulchild, many more. At the moment many of the shoes are done by hand by myself and some are made in Italy. I have bespoke clients all over the world. Right now I have a demand that exceeds my ability to supply. I was even contacted by a Nieman Marcus buyer that was amazed that I was a black straight male designer once she met me! She also said in her 25 years as a buyer, she ranked me top 5 best shoe designer she has come across. But I could not afford to meet her order request, because the shoes have to be made and shipped to them before I receive a check. So funding is a major problem! What is even more of a problem is the investors that I have came across, see what I have and try to take majority stake in the company and basically make a designing slave for their pockets. After I have gave up so much and went through so much to see dream through. So I agree something has to be done to get us funding. Can checkout my portfolio on instagram: @shoedesigner
I’m so late to the party. The issue isn’t lack of funding, it’s lack of support by the BLACK community. While we’re on the topic of discussing celebrities and their wealth, these same celebs rap about, become brand ambassadors and spokespersons for, hang out with , collab with, brag about owning, dress their kids in, model for, walk red carpet in, EURO labels. They sit front row during fashion week, and they’re often photographed wearing EURO designers. When that occurs, guess what happens? Their fan(followers) base then gravitates to this style of dress, and runs out to the nearest Neiman Marcus to spend their hard earned money supporting the SAME lines. It’s a cycle. Question is, who is going to break it?
I have really noted that most blacks just sit back,relax and wait for other people to invest their hard earned money on them. Playing victim or acting one isn’t the way out. Work for your money and you never know. Don’t wait for celebrities to come invest in you,did you work for them?
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