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David Koma is officially at the design helm of Mugler. For his first collection for the iconic fashion brand, he refrained from diving into the house’s archives — instead opting to use his creative hunches to produce an assortment of pieces that the new age Mugler woman would love.
Menswear-inspired suiting, sultry frocks with an emphasis on the female form, and expert tailoring laid the foundation for the lineup, where added edge was given with buckle detailing and bondage-influenced elastic straps.
Mugler’s out of this world 80’s creations were among the reasons why a pre-teen Koma decided to pursue a career in fashion and though that strength of design strongly guided and encouraged pieces here, Koma was determined to do much more for the brand than just strong shoulders and power dressing. Sexiness was still at play, but in a much more refined fashion with crop tops accented with architectural folds, high-waist maxi skirts that skimmed the body, and come hither thigh-high slits.
From here on out, it’s all about adding some new vocabulary to the Mugler language. First and foremost, Koma wants to create a wardrobe for the women who love the brand, not just eye-catching pieces that will hang in her closet with infrequent wear. There needs to be a sense of ease as she is definitely a woman on-the-go that will always value glamour, but finds equal importance in functionality. The collection’s neutral color palette with occasional pops of jolting color played into that wearable focus.
I’ve always been intrigued by Mugler’s futuristic clothing that seemed to shield women with a kind of stylish armor. Koma’s re-imagining of the brand is surprisingly just as mesmerizing and definitely more likely to be seen in the closets of a more vast array of women, which is of course one of the building blocks of profitability and commercial success. I truly cannot wait to see what he dreams up for his first runway offerings for the brand for Spring.
Thoughts on David Koma’s debut collection for Mugler?