Apparently approximately 90% of models cast during Fall 2013 fashion week were white, with New York designers casting even more caucasian women than previous seasons. Befuddled by this lack of diversity, Buzzfeed contributing writer James Lim contacted 5 top casting directors to get to the bottom of the issue.
A few snippets:
James Kelly, Casting Director for Tom Ford, Jason Wu, Derek Lam, Stella McCartney, and more said, “[The problem comes from] a mixture of things. The stylist has a lot of say though. Obviously, the blame can’t be put on the stylist alone, but the designer is taking the cue from somebody. I just think it’s weird how people are constantly saying, “But it’s about who the girl is and her character.” A fashion show is not a story book. A great model is a great model and no matter who she is she can take on any role. I don’t understand why only white girls could be that sort of gin-soaked boozy girl in Louis Vuitton this season. A character can be multicultural. We live in a multicultural world. At this point, it’s almost irresponsible not to represent that on the runway. I have millions of friends from all over the world and if they don’t seen themselves in the product, they don’t buy it.”
Jennifer Starr, Casting Director for Ralph Lauren, Ohne Titel, and GAP said, “Some designers are not paying attention to being inclusive and just cast woman they love, which they really cannot be criticized for. I do think casting directors have a responsibility to have the conversation, elevate awareness, and find their clients the best models out there for them, regardless of ethnicity.”
John Pfeiffer, casting Director for Michael Kors, Bottega Veneta, Donna Karan, Diane Von Furstenberg, and The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show wrote, ” When casting for the runway you want the models selected to be cohesive as a group both in mood and spirit. That being said, I’m not the kind of casting director that goes for a homogeneous aesthetic. Maybe that look works for certain shows, but I generally find it to be bland and boring…Fashion exists in a space that is about what’s next and what’s new. Certainly designers such as Yves Saint Laurent can be credited with making major strides in diversity — but I’m more interested in how that carries over into today. How can we as a community create a bold, empowering, and inclusive aesthetic? It’s something that is always on my mind.”
Lastly, Barbara Nicoli & Leila Ananna, Casting Directors for Burberry, Marchesa, Gucci, Emilio Pucci, Armani Privé & Saint Laurent, weighed in, with Nicole saying, “I love Asian girls, but there was a moment when designers decided to put a lot of Asian girls just because of the Asian market was strong and they gave a lot of money to designers… I think the designer has to decide who is good for their collection and the role of the casting director is to suggest appropriate models. We have to make a proper selection for our clients. It’s also true that, for example, caucasians have a specific body type, black girls have a specific body shape, and Asian girls have a specific body shape. So I guess there are some collections where it’s more perfect for an Asian body shape because they are more flat and less sexy, in a way. “
Ananna added, “Sometimes we work with more curvy girls and others with a very androgynous type. We worked on casting with a strong direction, like all blond girls or all brunette, for example. Or other girls who are very similar, if that helps to make the collection concept stronger. We think we need to keep in mind that these are shows. A show needs to make you dream and it doesn’t necessarily need to represent reality.”
So I guess in a fantastical dream world, brown people don’t exist?
What do you think of their explanations?
See the rest of the article here. It’s a good read!
Thanks to reader Keisha who sent us a link!
March 19, 2013 2:58 pm
The only response with some importance is that from Barbara Nicoli & Leila Ananna, (the fourth passage) because unlike the others, they did not tip-toe around the issue and give politically correct responses which do not touch on the essence of the subject.
March 19, 2013 3:14 pm
This just proves that racism is alive and well! There are numerous beautiful women of color who would have been an asset to the same designer’s runway shows, but again we are left out because we don’t fit their type for the season. I hope this information will reach all women of color, so maybe we need to re-think about how we spend our dollars on designers that don’t give a damn about us!!!! I guess they say you have a Black President, what more do you want!!!!!!!
March 19, 2013 3:31 pm
really interesting.
the comments made by Barbara Nicoli & Leila Ananna were rude and borderline racist. IMO. how do you make such a blanket statement as suggesting that asian womens boduies are not sexy.
March 19, 2013 3:34 pm
Very interesting read…I disagree with the poster who said that ethnically, black/asian/white hold a specific body type…. While that’s true in a general sense, there are (& I’ve seen) African American models of ALL body types, including the shape most genreally represented by Caucasians…
I also agree with Claire’s last comment…so there are no brown people in the fantasy world?? That’s ridiculous…
The only argument I can give pass to is the one which referred to casting models they love (as the old adage goes…it’s who you know…and whether they like you).
March 19, 2013 3:39 pm
This is really sad and the excuses are ridiculous to say the least. Models, typically runway models no matter what ethnicity have the same build and I see plenty of black models with small breasts broad shoulders and no ass at all. Thin thighs and hardly any hips. Yes racism exists and I get very upset by the naive-ness of a lot of what-to-be-down ass black people. What little change that has happened in our world is not enough to ignore what lies at heart and with younger designers doing the same things in these companies as its predecessors speaks volumes.
March 19, 2013 3:41 pm
Even if every Black person alive stopped buying and supporting these designers, their collections would still strive. Although the Black dollar is powerful in some sects, in the fashion world the White Dollar is much more powerful. Designers could care less about casting diversity when their products sell regardless. If we as minorities would create our OWN fashion houses and products, we wouldn’t be in this pedicament in the first place. We can’t wait on a handout (please cast us in your shows). Power is rarely given. Sometimes it has to be taken.
March 19, 2013 3:48 pm
They did not answer the question at hand at all. Avoiding it makes them seem more guilty of racism.
March 19, 2013 4:06 pm
so none of them answered the question. However, it seems like the answer is that designers cast 90% of whites cos they think that’s where the moneys at.
March 19, 2013 4:13 pm
“It’s also true that, for example, caucasians have a specific body type, black girls have a specific body shape, and Asian girls have a specific body shape. So I guess there are some collections where it’s more perfect for an Asian body shape because they are more flat and less sexy, in a way. “
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
*in NeNe’s voice*
WAIT, WHAT NOW?
soooo…Jourdan, Chanel Iman, Hollis, are what…shaped like Kardashians???!!! 8-O
kindly stfd & stfu.
uh-uhh…see, this is why i am ‘very’ feeling James Kelly’s remark:
“I have millions of friends from all over the world and if they don’t see themselves in the product, they don’t buy it.”
smh :-(
March 19, 2013 4:17 pm
Interesting read. I think this topic will be never ending though. @Annoyingly Right made a very good point. The white $ in fashion is indeed more powerful….but it’s all in how we look at this. I’ll be honest…I don’t purchase most of these designer duds because I’m penny wise…..I also do not see the point is spending a tremendous amount of money on certain things either (but that’s just me). Where “I” might feel slighted is that I watch the runway shows, discuss collections, basically paying a lot of attention to these designers because I’m fashion conscious. When we say we wont support them do we not buy or do we not give them a second look? Like I stated earlier…..this is not going to change…these people responded for the sake of responding…moot points all around.
March 19, 2013 4:19 pm
To me they’ve all stated the “same ole, same ole” and it just says to me that racism is something that is so DEEPLY entrenched inside a person’s psyche they can’t even “see outside” of their own racial world.
However I do agree, fashion is ultimately a business and the designers on down to the magazine editors and stylists, etc. respond to who has the most dollars to keep the “gravy train” going. They know the world is more diverse than what they put on the runaway, they’d have to be blind to Not see it. They just don’t care because they are responding in direct correlation to who they deem their “audience” and their buyers are. Period. In the fashion world (Overall/in general) we (individuals of color) don’t exist.
March 19, 2013 4:31 pm
They talked in circles & danced around the subject instead of directly addressing it as someone else said.
March 19, 2013 4:32 pm
With all due respect….it’s called racism.
March 19, 2013 4:33 pm
I don’t think it’s racism. I just think its a matter of preference. Why doesn’t any designers feature Ethnic models? Plainly put, BECAUSE THEY DON’T WANT TO!
Is that right? No. If they wanted to then they would have and diversity on the runway wouldn’t be an issue. I agree with the person who said that its up to us to create a platform which positively shows WOC of color in the fashion sector and not expect handouts.
It just sucks that we always gotta work so hard for things that other get so easily! Smh
March 19, 2013 4:36 pm
And I feel the casting directions are being very hypocritical. They have the power to add ethnic models to the runway yet they are telling us that they too feel the runways are whitewashed? Do something about it!
March 19, 2013 5:01 pm
I really wish black celebs would stop marketing these brands for free because they surely don’t advertise to us.
March 19, 2013 5:14 pm
Now what now? (in my mya from girlfriends voice) It seems like they all danced around the issue instead of just saying they don’t want to use people of color. Solution: how about we stop buying their designs. Oh and public service announcement to the hip hop world stop giving these people shout outs. Europeans only make up 10% of the world’s population. Let’s see how successful European designers can be without us..
March 19, 2013 5:16 pm
I don’t give a fuxx about these racist pigs and they certainly will not get rich off my sweat. By saying that they use certain models to keep a cohesive look they are saying that they designed the clothes with a certain race in mind…..I am not surprised, pigs been doing it since the beginning of time….
March 19, 2013 5:23 pm
To be honest, most that complain about not being represented on the runway are the same people who continue to buy and swoon over the designer’s clothes. The minute one of our favorite designers chooses to add one or two models of color because their complexion compliments the collection, we feel a sense of relief and it makes us feel a little better to indulge in their collection somehow, some day.
The truth is the only way this can change is to start with the person you see in the mirror. Unexpanded thinking will cease to exist if it is given no focus what so ever. Instead, create and focus upon lines that are not only creative but showcases expanded thinking on the runway, magazines and other advertisement avenues by one- representing what is real, beautiful women of color as flat as you want them and as curvy as you need them.
You have to admit, it is some ingenious marketing, branding and brainwashing for designers and fashion magazines to decade after decade ignore the existence of a MAJORITY on the runway and in publications, not to mention have the majority believe they are the minority, AND still have their goods purchased by the totally ignored. Of course this can’t totally be blamed on designers and magazines, but that’s another story…. We have to be smarter!
Oh, and “A show needs to make you dream and it doesn’t necessarily need to represent reality”. Hmm, reality is there are more people on the planet of color than not. So who is dreaming this dream?
Side note- I would like people who are not minorities to stop calling themselves minorities. If you are saying you are a minority because of color, that is simply not true.
March 19, 2013 5:27 pm
THEY WILL ALWAYS BE RAISCT POINT BLACK PERIOD IT REALLY SAD AND SICKENING WHICH IS WHY I DO NOT BUY OR SUPPOR FROM BRAND THAT ARE NOT DIVERSE I.E A&F, HOLLISTER AND .ETC BY NOT NOT HAVING DIVERSE MODEL SHOWS THAT THEY ONLY WANT A CERTAIN KIND WEARING THIER BRANDS THIS MESSAGE IS VERY LOUD AND CLEAR
March 19, 2013 5:51 pm
still, as a little girl…i sure am grateful that i grew up seeing many, many models that i could relate to on the runway thanks to Essence & (especially) the Ebony couture spreads, but ‘most’ importantly to:
Yves Saint Laurent (who was never scared, ok)
Willy Smith
& Patrick Kelly
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oyx5ppshjew
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBCBnFicOmU
hey, i know that black is beautiful & sure as hell don’t need yatch-hoppin’ designers to tell me so. ;-P
March 19, 2013 6:25 pm
I agree with most the comments. As a lover of fashion this saddens me but I thimk until poc take over the fashion world this is a convo that will go on and on
March 19, 2013 6:46 pm
This is all lip service and bullshit… Just as there are stereotypes that perpetuate a certain reality in sports that lead to many many African Americans being at the top of many sporting games, it is true of this industry as well. I think the lack of models of varying hues speaks to the ‘old ways’ and a dying breed. I guarantee you that designers who don’t soon embrace a more multicultural display of their work and diversify their models and modify how they design with size 6 in mind will be left behind. Just look at automobile industry, music industry, TV… those resistant to change will die or forced to change.
Young people simply aren’t going to have it…
March 19, 2013 7:41 pm
This article provides proof that most designers don’t believe woman of color have ANY buying power. What I find interesting is a lot of the designs are based on our fashion aesthetics. Shoot, they are painting the white girls to have darker skin. Caucasians are a confused breed.
March 19, 2013 7:45 pm
Annoyingly right you are very right! Lol without the annoying part. Blacks have always been so caught up in what whites are doing when we should just do us! Ie make our own product and cast ourselves! Half the time these designers are just biting off us anyway. Also I agree with the poster who said if u don’t see yourself in the product don’t buy it!!! This is my policy on fashion and rappers who think only light or white is beautiful if u don’t find me beautiful u certainly don’t need my $!!!
March 19, 2013 7:47 pm
“an Asian body shape because they are more flat and less sexy, in a way”….Ouch.
Anyway, black people are about 12% of the population, run 0% of the industry, but want, what….40, 50% of runway representation?
March 19, 2013 8:08 pm
John Pfeiffer’s comment got the most amount of side eye from me. Further, the modeling industry is already homogeneous in that a certain body type is already elevated above all else. The thing is, it’s not a Caucasian body type per se: lots of girls are lanky with long legs and insane facial bone structure. I knew from the title that there’d be excuses but I thought they’d be, you know…better. :lolz:
March 19, 2013 8:15 pm
Wow, what a way to make a blanket statement about races. Do these people not realize that there’s diversity within a race? Are they truly that ignorant that they believe race is a concrete way to determine individual difference?
There’s diversity in every race. Christina Hendricks, Reese Witherspoon, Katy Perry, Cameron Diaz, Lena Dunham are all white but have different body types. Zoe Saldana, Kerry Washington, Tyra Banks, Alek Wek, Halle Berry, Joy Bryant are all black and have different body types. Lucy Liu, Kelly Hu, Gong Li, Jenna Ushkowitz (Glee) are all asian and have very different body types.
To say that race determines body type totally undermines all women today.
Oh and Gong Li and Kelly Hu are totally freaking sexy.
March 19, 2013 9:49 pm
Makes me change who I support or why :/
March 19, 2013 10:14 pm
Sooo White models = more Greenbacks!
That is what was said.
The Concept of who the girl (meaning perceived customer) is.
Sometimes a designer just wants a certain type, indeed as long as the type is White!
Puleeeeessssseee!
White model = Greenbacks
Enough said!
March 19, 2013 10:39 pm
I’m glad to see Claire , tackling these issues and asking questions. I guess we just have to continue to create our own opppurtunities & break down doors . The fight for our culture to be recognized, respected & viewed as “good ole Americana ” continues . Hell we’ve been here since the “human race ” began, so I think it’s only fair that black beauty be viewed by the masses as standard “all American ” not just blonde hair , blue eyes.
What also bothers me is our spending dollars are not represented in the higher end fashion job market . When it comes to employment at magazines and fashion houses there is also a lack of diversity . If we saw more of an acceptance on the runway & media I think those facts would also change.
March 19, 2013 10:50 pm
Those answers are polished to political correctness perfection lol
March 19, 2013 11:13 pm
None of them answered the question. I’m not satisfied with their responses at all.
March 19, 2013 11:49 pm
All I read was blah, blah, blah more people need to start calling out the fashion industry on their racism. That is why I always side eye the diversity issue like the last discussion, because the diversity issue is always brought on our front door but these folks practice exclusivity knowingly. I agree with those who said it is time for us to make and create our own and create our own foothold in fashion.
March 20, 2013 4:53 am
The question was never answered. The body type issue is nonsense cause you get black women who are not as curvy as “typical Africa figure”. I think it’s easier for them to just select white girls. They must just be honest.
It’s not about casting 40%-50% of black models, it is about representation of black models on the runaway. How many black girls are there who could walk for a certain brand? Why aren’t those designers considering black models? It tells you a lot about the designers thinking about black people.
I guess like Claire asked in a fantastical dream world, brown people don’t exist?
March 20, 2013 6:53 am
This really irks me. Fashion seems the last bastion where you can discriminate against a model due to race. What other industry can you say no black girls or Asians? Not one. This is not about preference this is racial discrimination. Any other industry and they will be smacked with a law suit, so why does the fashion industry get a free pass?
March 20, 2013 9:25 am
@RHONYC yea im not understanding (buying) the “body shape” comment. from my observations – in shows like these – the models all have the same body shape – NONE.
…honestly could even read all the responses bc even in skimming it seems like they tootsierolled and pssypopped around saying “we’re not checking for brown girls, sorry”.
March 20, 2013 9:26 am
What this says to me is that people of color need to make their own avenue and stop relying on these kinds of people to accept us. When we start taking over, trust and believe they will pay attention.
March 20, 2013 9:31 am
The stereotype that most black women are curvy is complete and utter bullshit. There are plenty of black models who belong to agencies, they are just as small as these women on the runways. I think thats why a lot of people don’t even bother because they can’t see themselves in that product because it’s some frail, pail chick.
Whatever..
March 20, 2013 9:32 am
They just don’t want black girls… simple….
March 20, 2013 9:36 am
pale*
March 20, 2013 9:52 am
Funny I was just having this conversation about Angela Simmons new line…while I’m happy for the launch of her new line I couldn’t get pass the fact that the model she used in her vid was white. Honestly it bothered me because if WE don’t hire WE then how do we expect THEM too. With that being said I think that the time has come for us to spend more time supporting one another, cause believe it or not the world is made up more brown people then THEY would like to admit! In addition to that we need to create our own stuff….and don’t get it twisted I’m down for diversity but I’m know I am not the only one who sometimes opens a Vogue, Elle, Harpers while sighing a 1,000 sighs…
March 20, 2013 10:05 am
Everyone placed blame elsewhere and no one said shit worth saying. Period.
March 20, 2013 10:46 am
I think this complex, because there was a time when girls light skin was very popular,light skin girls have much success.
Muccia Prada, several seasons to practice this type of vicious racism, but nobody had reacted out this was already a great sign.
people are shocked by this podium 100% white, but nobody is shocked by the difference in treatment between girls Atuid Deng Deng Ajak, compared to girls Jourdan Dunn, cora emmanuel, Jasmine toques, etc..
I think james scully very hypocriticalhow many black girls he uses in his castings? 1 2 ? .
About Barbara Nicol and they are a great pair with brand Burberry who practice a form of nationalism ugly
March 20, 2013 11:10 am
They don’t want black girls. End of story.
March 20, 2013 11:52 am
“So I guess there are some collections where it’s more perfect for an Asian body shape because they are more flat and less sexy, in a way.”
To me that statement is racist. Where would white fall in the gradient in her head. Less sexier than black because there are more curves? Or
is the opposite true, where black is too curvy so ..its not…sexy??
I mean REALLY?!
Kudos to you for an honest response about racism then.
March 20, 2013 12:06 pm
“A show needs to make you dream and it doesn’t necessarily need to represent reality.”
Interesting. Very Interesting. Dream world=white world. Wow. I would have been great to have her elaborate more on that statement.
March 20, 2013 4:17 pm
@ Zoe
LMAO @ ” tootsierolled and pssypopped”
March 20, 2013 4:20 pm
Do black designers feature white models?
March 20, 2013 4:33 pm
I love how all of them put a spin on their views but at the end of the day basically it’s still some b.s just politely written! #Fail
March 20, 2013 6:00 pm
As a African American woman I must say reading this article was offensive. I understand that designers might love working with certain girls they have established relationships with or they want a certain body type but other than that there shouldn’t be any excused as to why this problem exist in 2013. As many have mentioned there are so many beautiful women of color to chose from. The color of a models skin or her ethnicity shouldn’t be based on the flavor of the season. People want to buy what they associate themselves with.
Women of color shop the retail stores and spend plenty of money on designer items. My last point is referring back to the statement that Ananna made about a show needs to be a dream and doesn’t represent reality. I disagree. I’m so tired of people using this as an excuse to misrepresent people in fashion and advertisement.
People want to see people who look like them doing great things, wearing beautiful clothes, and enjoying life.
March 21, 2013 1:13 am
I am appalled. fashion is for all, therefore should be shown on all colours.
March 21, 2013 7:04 pm
so basically ” if you not white ,then yoy not right” sad that still exist