Kenzo is an old house, made new with the help of Opening Ceremony founders Humberto Leon and Carol Lim. For the past few seasons, Leon and Lim have injected the brand with new life and excitement, partly due to their fearless re-appropriation and re-imagination of the house’s logo (which they’ve thrust onto must have sweatshirts, tees, and socks), and their bold command of color and print. Unfortunately most of the properties that made Kenzo so cool again were missing in the duo’s latest collection. Sure, the color palette was far from restrained: pale blue, gold, black, oxblood, and white reigned supreme. But patterns skewed safe in variations of gilded baroque flourishes and crocodile jacquard, along with an ‘all seeing eye’ design, which found itself on everything from sweatshirts to floor length maxi dresses.
The show opened with tinges of gold, found on close fit quilted trousers anchored by black cinch waist coats, and round shouldered blazer and skirt combos.
Oxblood and pale blue were the main tones, viewed by wine colored collarless toppers, patterned separates, and printed combinations.
The all seeing eye motif worked itself into the collection eventually, dotting mini skirts, uplifting jackets, and decorating sweatshirts.
I am a huge Kenzo fan, and have purchased straight off the runway pieces since the beginning of Lim and Leon’s tenure (stay tuned for my Style Diary this week!). I’m a bit sad I didn’t see anything I *must* have. The ‘eye’ sweatshirt looks like an Urban Outfitters creation. And I’m not that into eyes anyway. A Kenzo tiger I can get rock, but evil eyes (or eyes that protect you from evil, or whatever)….I’m good.
Still, a few printed separates had potential. I could see Solange Knowles in this suit, modeled by Ataui Deng, or this blue skirt suit worn by Liu Wen.
What do you think?
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