February 18th, 2013
Fashion News, Fashion Show, Fashion Week, Show Review
Show Review: Mary Katrantzou Fall 2013
By The Fashion Bomb Staff

By now, we all know what to expect from a Mary Katranzou show. We brace ourselves for dizzyingly beautiful prints, miraculously worked to actually look flattering on a body. But this season, we were in for something a little different. We did get the dazzling prints Katrantzou is known to produce, but this time around, the designer eschewed her busier aesthetic, instead exploring more subdued facets of the digital print realm.

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This season, Katrantzou seemed less focused on reimagining the trompe l’oeil print she’s become famous for, and decided  instead to play with new silhouettes. From folded origami shapes to rounded, structured, cocoon-like fare, it’s clear she was looking to show her range and tailoring skills.

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The printed elements of the looks were drastically scaled back from what we’re used to seeing from Katrantzou. The designer superimposed the work of photographers Edward Steichen, Clarence White, and Alfred Stieglitz onto her garments, creating quietly spectaular prints in monochromatic tones. There was certainly a marked absence of color in this collection, with most pieces coming in shades of black, white, and gray. Katrantzou did add a few bright splashes coming in the form of more muted, diluted watercolor-y hues.

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Etched leathers and chunky knits walked the runway alongside structured silken printed coats, gauzey, layered gowns, and the mentioned draped origami folded frocks and separates.

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There are some who’ve expressed a tinge of disappointment in Katrantzou’s showing this season. In the midst of the moody palettes we’ve been seeing all year, many were looking forward to Kantranzou’s more joyful aesthetic. But I, for one, appreciate that she’s tried something different. Katranzou has put together a collection that might be less intimidating for those who want to rock the digital print trend, but aren’t sure if the busy trompe l’oeil aesthetic works for them. Still, I can’t deny that this collection does lack the degree of drama we usually see from Katranzou. Nevertheless, I wager a few of these looks might work for stylistas like Kerry Washington or Naomie Harris.

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What do you think?

~Jihan

 

photos: NY Mag

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8 Responses to “Show Review: Mary Katrantzou Fall 2013”

  1. cocoa says:

    stunning pieces.. the details on the prints are breathtaking !

  2. Camillia says:

    This woman!! OMG, the detail!! I love it!

  3. Fashforward says:

    Now this is art.

  4. Izhause says:

    Stunning and unique!

  5. LawyerLady says:

    Ingenious and artistic. I’d love to see these tweaked for the streets – particularly the dress in pic #4.

  6. That leather dress is a beast.

  7. Natasha says:

    Like a Hanae Mori redux? I like the styling on the last pic (pant suit) but the collection is off for me.

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