There is no doubt that Marc Jacobs has a penchant for the theatrical. The big-budget shows he puts on season after season never fail to wow the crowds, and this time was no exception. His creations for Louis Vuitton‘s fall collection made a grand entrance on a larger-than-life locomotive, chugging down the runway to enthusiastic applause. What a way to start a show!
Last season, Jacobs’ woman was flirty and sweet, but this time she is a prim, buttoned-up femme with a mischievous smirk and wardrobe to match. Jacobs chose to hold the sauce this season, instead serving up modest, shin-skimming dresses and skirts layered over bejeweled ankle-biting trousers. Prim shift dresses were imagined and re-imagined in a variety of textures, from glossy and matte gem-adorned checkered leather, to graphic, bejewled geometric prints.
Large gem floral buttons accent smart pea coats, jackets, trousers, and dresses. Pants and separates possess the sort of grown-up tailoring we expect from a luxury brand. All the necessary hues of the season were represented, camels, deep and browns, greys, plums, blood reds, burnt oranges, jet blacks, deep inky blues.
Jacobs shows his playful side with slouchy, feathered toppers, recalling a Cat in the Hat-type whimsy. Models were flanked by luggage-toting footmen, bringing an early-20th century feel to the collection.
Sometimes, when designers have to create more than one collection in a single season, there are quite obvious overlaps in concept and design. The over sized hats and many of the shapes offered for Louis Vuitton are reminiscent of what Jacobs showed for his namesake collection. These clothes are certainly more wearable compared to what Jacobs showed in New York, but I’m still questioning those hats. At best, they’re quirky, and at worst they’re a little self-indulgent on his part. Who would wear them? This collection is also quite similar in some ways to Prada‘s fall offerings. It’s as if Marc and Muccia were sharing a brain, or at the very least, notes.
What do you think?
~Jihan
March 9, 2012 7:45 am
the train was an incredibly inventive and show-stopping beginning, but i don’t think the clothes quite delivered that “wow” factor. i agree that it came across as a slightly awkward cross between marc jacobs and the amazing prada collection – the spring collection was definitely superior. the luggage/bags the “porters” are carrying are lust-worthy though!
that said, marc jacobs is raising the stakes vis-a-vis the “show” aspect – karl lagerfeld’s out there somewhere grinding his teeth at the train lol
March 9, 2012 7:48 am
i kinda love how they had the bell hops with the fab luggage thats a nice touch as for the clothes……..
March 9, 2012 9:11 am
Fun fact, John Galliano used a train for Christian Dior haute couture 1998: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZYfoS2J_5g&feature=player_embedded
Just looking at the clothes makes me really wonder if they should just reinstate Galliano after he’s done with rehab. His clothes had such joy. Like 1998 couture collection vs. 2012 couture… what a drastic change.
and @ kalakuta27, I agree I think I preferred LVSpring 2012. That collection is simply flawless!
March 9, 2012 9:44 am
The most exciting thing about this show was the locomotive entrance and the porters lol. I loved the shoes and the luggage. The models were awkward and did not deliver, unless you’re supposed to look like you’re walking towards your death. I wasn’t a fan of the silhouettes, and a few of the fabrics. After seeing some HD photos I love the patterns and embroidery, the jackets are definitely some great individual pieces though.
However I kept thinking Mary Tyler Moore the entire time. I’m not sure if that is a good or a bad thing at the moment.
March 9, 2012 10:27 am
I am surprised by this…as much as seeing him in that pink polo style dress. SMH. I do not like this or that, Marc.
March 9, 2012 10:34 am
Love the theme !!!! Do iSPY glitter luggage?
March 9, 2012 12:08 pm
Don´t like the clothes that much…
but Jasmine Tookes has a very good season so far :LV, YSL , Stella McCartney, Balmain, Isabel Marant, Marchesa, Burberry Prorsum …just to name a few.
I´m so happy for her cause she´s stunning !
March 9, 2012 12:49 pm
There are a few pieces I like, but I’m not impressed overall.
March 9, 2012 1:27 pm
i like it, but i can find a lot of stuff that look like that, at the thrift shop and consignment shop down the street from me. none of it made me excited.
March 9, 2012 2:09 pm
i like the early 1900′s feel from the clothing. that is one of my favorite periods in fashion so i think it’s cool he took inspiration from that time.
March 9, 2012 2:23 pm
It looks a little Willy Wonka inspired , but the detailing is amazing love it
March 9, 2012 5:10 pm
Uninventive, unflattering, and cartoonish.
March 10, 2012 4:00 pm
those big buttons! NO!
March 10, 2012 8:45 pm
I don’t love it. :l
March 10, 2012 8:46 pm
some pieces here and there are great but overall all I can say is meh…