There is no doubt that Marc Jacobs has a penchant for the theatrical. The big-budget shows he puts on season after season never fail to wow the crowds, and this time was no exception. His creations for Louis Vuitton‘s fall collection made a grand entrance on a larger-than-life locomotive, chugging down the runway to enthusiastic applause. What a way to start a show!
Last season, Jacobs’ woman was flirty and sweet, but this time she is a prim, buttoned-up femme with a mischievous smirk and wardrobe to match. Jacobs chose to hold the sauce this season, instead serving up modest, shin-skimming dresses and skirts layered over bejeweled ankle-biting trousers. Prim shift dresses were imagined and re-imagined in a variety of textures, from glossy and matte gem-adorned checkered leather, to graphic, bejewled geometric prints.
Large gem floral buttons accent smart pea coats, jackets, trousers, and dresses. Pants and separates possess the sort of grown-up tailoring we expect from a luxury brand. All the necessary hues of the season were represented, camels, deep and browns, greys, plums, blood reds, burnt oranges, jet blacks, deep inky blues.
Jacobs shows his playful side with slouchy, feathered toppers, recalling a Cat in the Hat-type whimsy. Models were flanked by luggage-toting footmen, bringing an early-20th century feel to the collection.
Sometimes, when designers have to create more than one collection in a single season, there are quite obvious overlaps in concept and design. The over sized hats and many of the shapes offered for Louis Vuitton are reminiscent of what Jacobs showed for his namesake collection. These clothes are certainly more wearable compared to what Jacobs showed in New York, but I’m still questioning those hats. At best, they’re quirky, and at worst they’re a little self-indulgent on his part. Who would wear them? This collection is also quite similar in some ways to Prada‘s fall offerings. It’s as if Marc and Muccia were sharing a brain, or at the very least, notes.
What do you think?