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Gareth Pugh is fashion’s veritable Prince of Darkness with one foot rooted firmly in the future and the other moving around between different inspirations. His Fall 2012 collection fell right in step with his signature aesthetic with out of this world headpieces and sharp, angular lines, though the influences varied from animalistic with full-on fur looks, bondage with pieces crafted from layer upon layer of leather strips, and dark glamour in molded mini dresses.
Pugh took fur to the next level by adding it as trim to a number of outerwear pieces on the collars, sleeves, and hems of black wool coats. It was also used on a skirt, for an ensemble that will weigh heavily on not only your body but your pockets as well. The fur was shaggy on purpose in order to create movement on the runway as well as to add to the animalistic theme in the collection. It was reminiscent of the nobility’s outerwear during the Middle Ages, though naturally Pugh gave it a modern spin.
The bondage theme was explored with leather jackets and dresses crafted from strips of leather. A cropped jacket on Jourdan Dunn and a long draped style were the most wearable out of the bunch, while a piece with a flared corseted bottom could be seen on the likes of Lady Gaga.
The collection wasn’t all about restricting the body as some fluid designs were factored in by way of molded mini dresses and tops in grey and black. Beyoncé and Nicki Minaj have gravitated toward his looks in the past and I can see them both in these pieces from the collection.
Some of my favorite looks in the collection featured suede fringe detailing. Though pieces like a fringe cape and a leather bodice dress with a fringe skirt and long fringe sleeves were not highly functional, two high collar dresses boasting the fun detail will surely be worn by some celebrity or “It” girl in the months to come.
This is definitely one of Gareth Pugh’s strongest collections to date. He has already solidified himself as a designer who brings fantasy to life, which in turn means he often falls short when it comes to functionality. Here he gave us both. He often works from a dark palette no matter what the season and I would have liked to see him add in a dash of color, but I did enjoy his use of detailing. Seeing how these looks translate into ready to wear will be very exciting and I have a feeling that the leather jackets in the collection will be among the most popular pieces, as well as the draped satin boots.
What do you think of Gareth Pugh’s new collection?