In his second runway season for Balmain, Olivier Rousteing’s design prowess has really started to take shape. He has moved the fashion house from its days of total rocker chic with crystal-encrusted strong shoulder jackets and destructed denim to a place where edge and functionality meet. He has kept the brand’s couture level embroidery and detailing and has given it a modern and cool spin that is still very high fashion, yet approachable which these days is the key to retail success. Fall 2012 was all about the boxy jacket, pearl beading and rich textures: baroque gone modern.
Rousteing got right into the beading with velvet menswear-inspired suits and sweaters gone glam with pearls. He paired pieces like pearl-encrusted trousers with knit sweaters in an effort to make the looks more casual though he went all the way rock and roll with a beaded vest paired with a leather turtleneck and matching leather pants.
Embroidered and quilted velvet was everywhere from the clothing to the footwear and some of the most exciting looks showcased the soft fabric in rich forest green and dark teal, sometimes paired with lighter teal leather jackets.
Rousteing did present a number of simple looks that really displayed his expert tailoring skills. Midi-length leather skirts, boxy double-breasted blazers, bomber jackets: functionality was not totally ignored and these looks could work in the office straight to a night out.
Last, but not least were the showstopping dresses featured in the collection. Embroidered, beaded and quilted to the max, I can pretty much guarantee that Zoe Saldana will be wearing one of these pieces in the coming months.
Such a great collection from Olivier Rousteing and the change in design is becoming more and more evident each season. Though I always admired the craftsmanship inherent to the Balmain brand, the collections were becoming redundant and cliché. Under his direction, the rocker chic mini dresses and strong shoulder jackets are still at play, but are updated in unexpected ways. These are the kinds of pieces that make the brand’s prices more understandable, as well as establishing it once again as one of the creative forces in fashion, not just “rocker chic Balmain”.
What do you think?
Photos: ELLE.com
March 2, 2012 7:44 pm
OMG YES YES YES!!!
March 2, 2012 8:53 pm
I really can’t believe how fabulous this collection is! I was in awe. You guys always get the great pictures!!
March 2, 2012 9:17 pm
This is a beautiful collection and definitely unique.
March 2, 2012 11:57 pm
I am digging the power shoulders of the jackets. They are sooo hot!! And the dress designs too. Everything in this BALMAIN collection is a head turner and AMAZING!!!
March 3, 2012 1:30 am
YESSS! The emerald green velvet maxi skirt with the major slit! LOVING this collection!
March 3, 2012 5:53 am
That long-sleeve embroidered dress is definitely a Zoe Saldana look!
March 3, 2012 7:36 am
Yes yes hell yess! Everything excluding nothing, from start to finish this collection is the business.
March 3, 2012 8:11 am
Awesome Dresses of Fashion Weeks 2012. I want to join the new fashion weeks of march 2012
March 3, 2012 9:09 am
I love!
March 3, 2012 9:46 am
Nice. Too bad all I can do is drool. Too expensive for me.
March 3, 2012 9:54 am
Olivier can do no wrong in my eyes! He is turning this brand around.
March 3, 2012 10:08 am
This collections is Off the Chains!!!!! Im sure we will see Monica in a piece or two..
March 3, 2012 10:30 am
Zoe Saldana written all over it.
March 3, 2012 11:20 am
My goodness this is ridiculous. That green velvet maxi, the green velvet military jacket, the midnight blue velvet trousers and the pale green studded mini dress….I whimpered!!
March 3, 2012 3:57 pm
Yet another reason why Balmain is one of my favourites. I love it!
March 3, 2012 5:22 pm
” Though I always admired the craftsmanship inherent to the Balmain brand, the collections were becoming redundant and cliché. ”
Exactly.
I think Oliver is leading the brand in the right direction. There seems to be a fabulous piece in every look. I’m thoroughly impressed.
March 3, 2012 6:12 pm
Beautiful stuff!
March 3, 2012 11:16 pm
MESS.ORG
Girl, bye!
March 4, 2012 1:22 am
these are my favorite materials #heaven and they are all combined ..what more can I say
March 4, 2012 1:30 am
I agree with the commenter who this had Zoe all over it. The continuity between this and the last season is absolutely amazing. Sometimes I feel that designers can’t produce a great transition, but this is perfection. The embroidery is screaming my name!!
March 4, 2012 5:39 am
These clothes wouldn’t look so great on someone short and average looking. They look like clothes EMO and grunge kids would wear
March 4, 2012 3:59 pm
I love the dresses.
March 4, 2012 8:09 pm
I am really enjoying this collection… some are a bit too exaggerated for my taste but for the most part I love it.
The pant suits and dresses are to die for!
March 4, 2012 11:35 pm
I know next to nothing about runway fashion and i don’t even know this designer but I said “WOW” over and over as i scrolled through these images.
stunning.
March 6, 2012 10:47 am
Yessss this is amazing!