It is safe to say that Sarah Burton has continued the tradition of dramatic, spectral beauty the McQueen house is known for. What has changed is the subtlety with which Burton crafts the garments, making one take a second look to see the quietly creeping morbidity.
Inspired by sea life, Burton incorporates the physical forms sea sponges, mollusks, coral, and anemones into this spring collection. Ruffled hems of classically tailored skirts and blazers mimic the texture of yellow sea sponges, uplifted by braided twist details shaped like giant sea clams. Frothy babydoll dresses laden with ruffles follow suit, bringing a welcome feel of innocent naivete from a house notorious for its edginess. Unapologetic peplums boldly skirt out like feeding invertebrate fingers. Coral pieces transform gowns into shells of undersea armor.
Pearlescent hues dominate the collection, ranging from the fleshy pink tone one would find in the mouth of a seashell, to bone white. Blacks and corals add a punch of power to the muted colors.
Delicate tentacles of lace creep like seaweed tendrils, consuming the models with parasitic zeal. Lace skullies progressively crawl down models’ heads from look to look, until, like and old bit of suken flotsam, their faces are completely overtaken by fibrous webbed sheaths or barnacle-like growths. Straps on platform wedges snake up models’ legs, occasionally punctuated by tufts of fabric or coral-shaped baubles.
Needless to say, this collection is absolutely breathtaking! What I most love is how all the pieces look as if they are alive and growing on the models. Sarah Burton’s definitely keeping that kind of unsettling beauty we expect from the McQueen house. Brava! For this, I will forgive her (this time) for using exactly zero black models.
~Jihan
October 5, 2011 10:03 am
Pure Art!!! RIP Alex!
October 5, 2011 10:23 am
RIP Alexander. This is what I’ve been waiting for. I need to find a video of the show.
October 5, 2011 10:32 am
Magnificent..Sarah Butron took over so smoothly, I mean onve again the house of AM is in a league of its own. Very few can make haute couture so very wearable..not affordable by us mere mortals, but def wearable.
October 5, 2011 11:43 am
This collection is simply stunning! Almost every look stirred my emotions and evoked some vivid memory. I cannot recall the last time a runway show has touched me so deeply. Kudos to Sarah Burton and the house of McQueen.
October 5, 2011 12:39 pm
Absolutely breathtaking…to say the least.
October 5, 2011 1:02 pm
beautiful collection.
October 5, 2011 1:16 pm
If you like this, then you are probably also interested in our Dutch designer Iris van Herpen. She rocks!
October 5, 2011 2:15 pm
Those coral sandals…ahhh I need that! That was so McQueen it hurt my heart! RIP!
October 5, 2011 2:48 pm
Absolutely Stunning!
October 5, 2011 3:28 pm
He was TOTALLY in touch with his PISCES for this one and I LOVE EVERY SINGLE PIECE!!!!!! Rest Peacefully in Heaven Mr. McQueen. It hurts me to my soul that you’re not here but I’m so happy we can continue to see your talent illuminate the runway. <3
October 5, 2011 3:51 pm
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October 5, 2011 3:53 pm
Not one Black girl though? Im disappointed…
Of course I like the clothes tho.
October 5, 2011 4:18 pm
Loveeeee it all!!!..
October 5, 2011 5:03 pm
The shoes are sick sick sick!
October 5, 2011 5:08 pm
I could see Janet Jackson wearing that black peplum top and skirt look minus the headpiece on someone’s red carpet.
October 5, 2011 6:04 pm
I live for those shoes!!!!!!
October 5, 2011 8:38 pm
This is kinda what I expected from Kanye. Something out there but beautiful at the same time. Oh wells. And they could have at least had one black model sheesh.
October 5, 2011 11:08 pm
Stunning!!!!
October 6, 2011 10:30 am
Love everything!