This gorgeous picture of Trina, shot by celebrity photographer Michael-Antonio as part of a series on female rappers, is proof that you can have a beat face while using very little products and not even much color. All with some contouring.
The main idea behind contouring is to use darker shades to recede certain areas of the face and lighter ones to highlight others. When using contours and highlights, the general notion is to transform the face into the “ideal” shapes—almond for the eyes and oval for the face. The reason these are considered ideal is based on their symmetry. So basically if you have a rounder face, you’ll use contours on the more round areas and highlights to bring out high points like the cheekbones and bridge of the nose.
To get a contour look, gather the following:
* A stick foundation or concealer that matches your skin tone
* A stick foundation, matte blush, concealer, etc. that is 2-3 shades darker than your skin tone
* A stick foundation, matte blush, concealer, etc. that is 2-3 shades lighter than your skin tone
* A shimmery eyeshadow that’s about the same shade as your skin tone
* A very light shimmery eyeshadow that’s 2-3 shades lighter than your skin tone
* A matte eyeshadow about 2-3 shades darker than your skin tone
* A dark eyeliner
* Peach blush
* Nude lip color
Use the lighter foundation stick or concealer under the brow bone to create a more natural looking brow highlight. Be sure to blend with a concealer brush or the edge of a makeup wedge so there are no harsh lines. Apply the darker contour shade in the crease using a fluffy eyeshadow brush and a back and forth sweeping motion—almost like a windshield wiper. Dot the lighter shimmery eyeshadow in the corners of the eyes and if you wish under the bottom lash line using a pencil brush like MAC 219. Then apply the shimmery eyeshadow close to your skin tone on the bottom portion of the lid and gently blend being careful not to leave harsh lines but also not “muddying” the area where two colors meet. Line the eyes and apply mascara.
Using the lighter foundation stick or concealer apply along the tops of the cheekbones. Make a “fish face” to find the hollows of your cheeks and using a fluffy angled brush apply the darker shade. Apply a peach blush (looks great on all shades of brown) to the apples of the cheeks and then carefully blend so there are no harsh lines but again being careful not to “muddy” the area where two colors meet.
Decide which areas of your face need to recede (normally the perimeter of the face and jaw line) and take a large fluffy blush and dust the darker makeup shade along this area.
The most important part of this? Practice, practice, practice. On a lazy Saturday afternoon, look yourself in a well-lit bathroom and get to it. Check out your using natural daylight or by snapping a few pics.