Hey Guys!
So I was out all day prepping for an event, but came home to a serious internet debate over Vanity Fair’s most recent New Hollywood cover:
Writer Joanna Douglas (who I interned with back in the day) wrote an article on Yahoo’s Shine site, remarking that the cover featured actresses who were, “extremely thin and very, very white.” She continued, “We can think of a slew of non-white, non-rail thin actors who made a splash this year (Gabourey Sidibe from “Precious” anyone?)…Roles for black, Asian, and Latin actors are scarce in Hollywood, but surely Sidibe, Zoe Saldana of “Avatar” and “Star Trek,” and Freida Pinto of “Slumdog Millionaire” are having their moment. Vanity Fair may have been looking for the most promising batch of talent for their issue, but they should have been looking for a diverse group of women as well.”
Over 18,000 people responded, most maintaining that Vanity Fair is a white magazine, and that all black publications and networks are also guilty of playing in the non diversity game. Commenter Amber summed up the general sentiment, saying, “Why is it when there is all white people on the cover, the magazine is being racist, but, when there are no white people involved, you can’t say anything? Isn’t this called double standards and I get pretty tired of seeing that.”
Magazines like Essence and Latina were created because national publications historically ignored and devalued the contributions of African-Americans, Asians, and Latinos. Very concentrated niche groups set out to make magazines that spoke to them about the issues, stars, and news that mattered to them.
While a few crossover stars like Beyonce and Rihanna can land the covers of mainstream mags like Vogue and Glamour, a seasoned actress like Gabrielle Union might not have it so easy. While we all loved Gabby in “Daddy’s Little Girls” and “Deliver us from Eva,” the larger American population might not be familiar with those films. Still, Gabrielle is talented, beautiful, and well liked, so of course, magazines like Essence have to give her the shine a broader magazine might not.
The problem occurs when mainstream magazines like Vanity Fair, that supposedly cater to a diverse audience, systematically ignore a large percentage of its readership. On its website, Vanity Fair says, “From world affairs to entertainment, business to fashion, crime to society, Vanity Fair is a cultural catalyst that drives the popular dialogue globally.” Essence never claimed to be for every person. On its website, Essence says it’s about, “Black Hairstyles, Black Women, Celebrity Photos, Entertainment News, Celebrity Gossip.”
Vanity Fair can claim to be about whatever it wants to be. If they want to just focus on socialites (as they typically do), then they should change their mission statement to say, “All about fashion, politics, and entertainment for the rich, white, and well heeled.” If you’re going to be exclusive, then claim it! But don’t say you’re about a global discourse and popular culture, then publish a magazine that totally lacks a global, popular outlook. Global implies diversity and also an honest acknowledgment of what truly constitutes popular culture. As Douglas said, Gabourey Sidibe is certainly making a splash and is a popular subject in the public discourse.
It’s fine to have your magazine be about whatever you want it to be! The Fashion Bomb was always about urban fashion; if urban fashion isn’t for you, then you are certainly free to find a site that is geared towards a general audience. But if you’re global, be global, and if you claim to cater to everyone, then do it! It is your duty. And if you’re not. Stop fooling yourself.
What do you guys think?
Read the rest of Douglas’ article here.
Pictures care of VanityFair.com
February 8, 2010 8:53 pm
white privilege is an interesting thing. only with that can you make silly black-and-white claims that this issue creates a double standard. again, it’s just white people avoiding the deeper issue. but that’s the joy of privilege! maybe if white magazines (and white everything else) had done right in the first place, there wouldn’t have been a need for magazines like essence or latina.
February 8, 2010 9:01 pm
Well said Claire. I totally agree with you. The problem with mainstream publications is that they purport themselves as being representative of society as a whole and then ignore or misrepresent huge segments of their audience. The trouble is that they’re afraid to tell the truth about themselves and admit that they are catering to a niche.
February 8, 2010 9:47 pm
This one one of the many reasons why I want to work in the magazine industry right here. This just gives me more motivation to keep pursuing my degree. It’s dissapointing how much lack of diversity magazines show when this is such a diverse nation.
February 8, 2010 10:44 pm
[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by thefashionbomb and Ni'Cole, Claire. Claire said: RT @thefashionbomb: My 2 cents on the Vanity Fair issue http://bit.ly/cq78ea [...]
February 8, 2010 11:45 pm
The majority of black magazines that I read their target audience are are black women, black people , or black men. Most of these magazine will most likely not change whom they place on the cover, so I don’t see why magazines that cater to a white demographic must also put black people on the cover. At the end of the day both sides are refusing to diversify.
February 8, 2010 11:57 pm
“systematically ignore a large percentage of its readership.”
Claire do you actually have the statistics on who reads Vanity Fair or any other well known magazine?, because I don’t feel its correct to say that unless you actually have a source to back it. How do we know that black women are a large percentage of their readership when black women in america are not the largest group of women in terms of population.
For example I’m from Toronto, Canada we have Elle, Flare, Fashion. and other magazines their target market is white women. So for me to say that black women in Canada are a large percentage of the readership even though blacks in Canada only make up like 2.5% that would be very far off. The black population in America is only around 13% i’m not sure of the percentage of black women in America.
If you have any sources of the stats on who reads vanity fair etc can you please provide them! Thanks.
February 9, 2010 12:41 am
@ Ebony Intuition:
Read Claire’s comment on Vanity Fair’s claim to be a magazine with a “global” perspective. Statistics on America’s demographics cannot support the magazine’s lack of global perspective when the magazine says it does. Likewise, national demographics do not represent the magazine’s readership demographics or the nation’s spending demographics. If a magazine, clothing line, store, etc. refuses to respect the “global” dollar, then it will perish. Vanity Fair or any other “mainstream” magazine cannot survive without the “minority” dollar. Also, the actresses that Claire is commenting on are being recognized by the “mainstream” via the Oscars, Golden Globes, etc. Why were they left out of an article showcasing hot Hollywood talent then?
February 9, 2010 2:39 am
For ebony intuition you do not see anything wrong with other diverse groups not being on the cover of these magazines? The big issue here is that Vogue, Vanity Fair, Elle etc are mainstream publications that depict and tell people daily what is beautiful. We already know that their images of beauty affect self esteem and what women are comparing themselves to(hair, size, shape, weight etc) but to be black or any other race as well ads to this difficulty of what it means to be beautiful. Black women have dealt far too long with negative imagery about themselves and even subtle forms of self hatred (ie. light skin vs dark skin issues) This is why Essence and Ebony have come about because we needed an outlet. We needed to see our people doing well, our women beautiful and our people being influential. For blacks to make it in this world specifically America we need the encouragement and mindset to do it because no one else will tell us how great and important we are. Thats why the black power movement was so huge because blacks were finally giving themselves that boost they needed to get away from the cowardice and slave like mentality. They had to get their pride and dignity that was taken from them years ago. It’s not about black magazines refusing to diversify but about making sure black people are accounted for. So I have to give props to essence and all other organizations to lift black people. America’s history has caused all of this and I think it would be crucial for these magazines to step out of their “white privelege” and remember beauty is universal and that america is not only white. Now for a future goal it would be great if we could all meet in the middle one day accept each other as we are. The day when we can transcend from racial issues will indeed be a happy one .
On that note Happy Black history month to everbody!!!
February 9, 2010 5:38 am
@EbonyIntuition you are correct, I did not contact Vanity Fair’s advertising department to ask them specifically how many black people read their magazine. Not sure they would respond to that, but I digress. I think it’s safe to say that black people read Vanity Fair. Perhaps not a large percentage, but let me edit and say ‘a percentage.’ I have in my time, and I know others who have as well.
The main point I was trying to make was this: Vanity Fair parades itself as a global magazine when it is, in fact, not. If they only want to speak to a sliver of what represents the ‘globe’ then they should change their mission statement to one that reflects their true practices. Essence does.
Also, regarding all this talk about Ebony and Jet. For the millions of black people in America, we have at most, let’s say 5 magazines. We have less than a dozen to ourselves. How many thousands of magazines maintain that they’re focused towards the country, but yet still depict an America that is white only? They don’t represent the nation–and I’m not just talking about black people but also Asians and Latinos. Perhaps blacks only make up 13% of the population, but browns I’d say might constitute almost 50%. Instead of acknowledging all the brown in the globe, these magazines maintain that the only people that matter are white.
In sum, there can be niche magazines. Essence is niche and if you want to say its racist, fine. I’m sure the KKK has its own magazine, as do Skinheads. And let’s say they have a thriving, yet marginal demographic. But I’d say most *national* magazines do not admit that they are basically the KKK in disguise.
February 9, 2010 5:45 am
Also, might I add, if more magazines made an effort to be diverse, we wouldn’t need Essence or Jet. Why buy Essence if you can buy Vogue and see Beyonce on the cover? Why buy Essence if you can flip open a Glamour and get hair and beauty tips that work for you? If the national magazines made an effort to include more people of color, we wouldn’t need our niche publications; but as it stands we do. Latina, Essence, etc are a response to Vanity Fair and Vogue. We didn’t one day decide to segregate ourselves, that was decided for us! I think if African-Americans had it their way they would have been included and involved from the beginning (say since 1968 when Essence was founded). If national magazines diversified we wouldn’t need Jet, but it seems, for the past 40 years, mainstream pubs have been unable and unwilling to find a way to include others.
February 9, 2010 6:33 am
I wonder how things would be if Vanity Affair filled their covers and this hollywood issue with black and every other race besides white. To say the least I’m not applaud at the missing color it sucks that it is almost excepted in my mind.What would happen if the shoe was on the other foot.
February 9, 2010 7:35 am
When people don’t hire enough people of color, things like this happen. The token black kid working the clothing racks with no say in the shoot doesn’t count. The countless make up spreads featuring every other race besides people of color, the hairstyles for everyone but us…It’s sickening. I stopped subscribing to these publications because of that. If magazines want to know why they are doing so poorly, it’s because white people are tired of seeing the same thing and other races are tired of not seeing themselves at all.
Those debates may act like white people fully support having only white actresses and “their magazine,” but the slumps don’t support that. And I doubt many of the men arguing for Vanity Fair’s spread actually bought it at the newsstands. Let’s be real.
February 9, 2010 9:43 am
Social comments and analytics for this post…
This post was mentioned on Twitter by thefashionbomb: My 2 cents on the Vanity Fair issue http://bit.ly/cq78ea...
February 9, 2010 10:14 am
@Trina you said ” Vanity Fair or any other “mainstream” magazine cannot survive without the “minority” dollar. ”
Of course they can survive, these magazines have been out way longer than Essence, Essence isn’t even black owned (hmmm) . So of course they can survive. Blacks are always threatning companies that they won’t support them but they never go about doing so.
@KayKay- One I don’t need a history lesson on American history, I never understand why people bring up history as if we don’t know those factors already. That factor is pointless.!
you said”you do not see anything wrong with other diverse groups not being on the cover of these magazines?”
NOPE why? Because I don’t depended on Vogue, Vanity, Elle etc to tell me what’s beautiful. I read a very broad sprectrum of magazines. I read Arise, Sway, Ghubar, lots of magazines who’s target audeince is black women or black people.
@Claire- I totally understand your view on the article but this is just one issue, everyone is acting as if Vanity has never had a non white person on their cover , same with Vogue etc. And if it bothers people that much don’t buy their magazine.
I would also like to note that I go to the movies every single weekend, I see almost every film out there and the reality is even if they did put a black actress on the cover the only person they would have put is Zoe Saldana. What other female American actress of Asian, Indian decent could have been on that cover? none really. If people actually read the issue (which im sure most haven’t) they would see that Monique , and Gabourey are in the issue, they just aren’t on the cover.
February 9, 2010 10:21 am
If you look at Vanity Fair’s website, they put a pic of Gabourey and Monique up. Totally transparent.
Also, the person who first pointed out the lack of diversity was not black. Joanna Douglas is white with brown hair. So even though we’re talking about it, we’re not the only people who notice and find it offensive.
February 9, 2010 11:16 am
very good post. I agree with you, the issue is Vanity Fair is not a magazine designed to fill a void as many other ethnic centered magazines are. It is not a double standard. Their magazine if its allegedly designed to have a global focus–having all white women on the cover is not “global”. However, I have never been a subscriber or purchaser of the mag–I think I have one issue with Alicia Keys and & Jay-Z a couple years ago when they did the various covers for AIDS activism. I probably won’t buy another issue.
February 9, 2010 12:09 pm
I’m not an avid reader of VF, have never purchased an issue, but obviously I understand the larger discussion taking place. Claire, I think you summed up my exact thought perfectly. Bottom line: don’t claim to be something you’re not.
February 9, 2010 2:18 pm
Ebony Intuition stated:
“If people actually read the issue (which im sure most haven’t) they would see that Monique , and Gabourey are in the issue, they just aren’t on the cover.”
why make it a point to include actresses the magazine deems worthy of mention in an article or flip cover yet deny those actresses a place on the cover with the actresses. Why mention them at all? The fact that they may (or may not have) been featured on the flip cover is more problematic.
Yes this is just one issue, but this issue is titled “The New Holloywood, 2010″ This cover is either indicative of the racisim in hollywood or gross ignorance on behalf of the magazine. While I will be the first to admit Hollywood still has major steps to take in terms of diversity, the fact is Saldana, Sidibe and even Zoe Kravitz are all actresses of color who have films on the Horizon and should have been included not only in the article but also on the cover. If a magazine is going to cater to a particular population, then it should state that. If a publication is insisting on being marketed as a global publication that discusses popular culture, worldy affairs, arts and entertainment, then it needs to include all those people who fit in the category, not just white ones.
February 9, 2010 2:44 pm
Vanity Fair may have been out longer than Essence and Latina, but that does not mean that the magazine can ostracize their non-white readers and remain solvent. This is not a call to boycott, but it is a comment on the magazine’s blatant omission and the repercussions it may face. For one, the cover is now overshadowed by controversy and it has caused a discussion amongst potential/current non-white readers that will have an impact on their purchasing decisions.
February 9, 2010 5:41 pm
Very simple answer….don’t buy it. I don’t buy it. I put my money where my mouth is. I support Essence, Ebony and a few others. Kudos Claire!
February 9, 2010 6:50 pm
@ Ebony Intuition …Well for one that factor (history) is very and will always be important. I am not trying to sound preachy but If more of us focused on our history and really studied it beyond it the usual diluted stories they teach you in 4th grade of some public schooI then we would really see things in a different scope. I only stressed the history to emphasize my point on Essence and Ebony’s importance. Two, thats fine if you do not need a history lesson or you do not rely on Vogue,Elle, etc to tell you whats beautiful but this discussion is for other readers of this blog as well. Im not just speaking directly towards you in the latter part of my statement. There are actually other girls looking at these magazines to tell them what is beautiful directly & indirectly and those are the ones I am concerned about. These young black girls or any other race want to see a beautiful image of people like them and its not fair to them to see people like them absent on cover. Everyone’s comment on here is valid and raises a good point. We are all looking passed just this one article but at a bigger issue and it is definitely worth analyzing and criticizing
February 9, 2010 7:12 pm
Magazines like Vogue recognize the buying power of black women. How many of us non subscribers purchased that issue with Michelle Obama on the cover? At the end of the day, print magazines are going to hell in a hand basket. If Vanity Fair knew what was good for them, they’d go after the largest swath of people possible. Let’s see if we’re still talking about Vanity Fair in 10 years.
February 9, 2010 8:31 pm
I think Claire did an excellent job of explaining the root issue: claiming to be diverse (because it sounds good) and not following through with the claim.
I would like to address the comments regarding not purchasing the magazine. I would love to only purchase black owned magazines; the fact is (as EbonyInstitution pointed out) that many of these magazines are not owned by black people. They also don’t have the same resources as “white” magazines meaning the content is not the same quality. I like Essence, but let’s be real… I don’t know anyone in my age group (25-35) who reads Jet! Since their niche market is African Americans, they lack a global perspective. They also don’t have the juice required to get big name designers in their pages.
I, as an African American female consumer (and budding fashionista) am put in a position where I have to choose between supporting the systematic exclusion of people who look like me, or not having access the lastest and broadest reporting in the fashion industry.
Which is why I love Fashion Bomb!
February 10, 2010 3:10 am
The March issue of Essence (with Barack and Michelle on the cover) has a good spread on Black actresses in Hollywood. And they don’t just name Gabby and Zoe, too…lol. Somebody at Essence must have known about the Vanity cover before they ran their story…lol.
February 10, 2010 9:07 am
I would also like to point out that if people in America took the time to research other magazines outside of America, they would know that there is a and Vogue India, Vogue China, Voge Tiawan, Elle India. Vogue Mexico, etc which do feature models from those Nationalities,
@Claire I sent you the link to my fashion blog on twitter that showcases these magazine issue stated above , i’m not sure if you actually took the time to go through the blog but if you did you would have seen that there was a very broad range of ethnicities being showcased on my blog hence the name of it Beauty Is Diverse.
February 10, 2010 12:52 pm
@EbonyIntuition, I did take a look at your blog. I gave you feedback via twitter, remember?
And regarding your last point, kudos to other countries for representing their country in a way that reflects their countries demographics. We can only hope that American publications follow suit and reflect the beautiful diversity that makes America so great.
February 10, 2010 6:42 pm
I think you bring up some great points. Vanity Fair has actually had some prominent people of color on their covers (Tiger Woods, Oprah) when they are hot enough that it will work. It’s a bit hypocritical but it is a business and they do what sells. This video http://www.newsy.com/videos/big-magazines-controversial-covers asks if all this buzz is actually bad for magazines with controversial covers, and I don’t think so. All publicity is good publicity.
August 10, 2010 3:48 am
[...] culture.” The first thing that struck me about this cover was how different it was from Vanity Fair’s controversial Young Hollywood cover: While the Young Hollywood of Vanity Fair is unabashedly non-diverse, it seems Tonchi has a more [...]
December 10, 2010 11:40 am
When all else is lost the future still remains.
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